In Two Weeks

La Ruta Maya

This route, which connects all the major Maya sites in Mexico, could be done quickly in 2 weeks, or more slowly in a month, or perhaps broken up into two trips. There is a slight risk of overdosing on ruins by seeing too many in too short a time. I give you the fast-track approach, but that doesn't mean that I am encouraging you to move through this area that quickly. The best mode of travel would be a rental car: The highways are not terribly busy and are, for the most part, in good shape.

Day 1: Arrive in Cancún

After you arrive, enjoy the remainder of the day with a swim in the Caribbean or a relaxing afternoon poolside.

Day 2: Ek Balam & Chichén Itzá

Get on the modern toll highway that heads toward Mérida and take the exit for Valladolid. Head north, away from the town, to visit the ruins of Ek Balam. Highlights include a sacred doorway richly decorated with vivid figures of gods and men. Then it's back to the town of Valladolid for lunch before driving the short distance to Chichén Itzá on the old federal highway. Just outside of town, stop to see the cenotes of Dzitnup and Sammulá. Farther on is the cave of Balankanché. When you get to Chichén, check into your hotel, and then go to the ruins later in the evening for the sound-and-light show.

Day 3: Continuing to Uxmal

Spend more time at the ruins of Chichén Itzá in the morning, then continue west on the toll highway toward Mérida, and turn off at Ticopó. Head south toward the town of Acanceh and Highway 18. Stop to see the small but interesting ruins in the middle of town, then proceed down Highway 18 to the ruins of Mayapán. Afterward, continue through Ticul to Santa Elena and Uxmal. Experience the sound-and-light show.

Day 4: Edzná

Visit Uxmal in the morning, then drive back toward Santa Elena and take Highway 261 south to Hopelchén and on to the impressive ruins of Edzná. Nearby is a fancy hacienda turned hotel called Uayamón or drive into the town of Campeche and stay at more modest digs.

Days 5 & 6: Palenque, Bonampak & Yaxchilán

Stay on Highway 261 to Escárcega, then head west on Highway 186 toward Villahermosa, then south on Highway 199 to the town of Palenque with its magnificent ruins. The next day, go to the ruins of Bonampak and Yaxchilán using one of the local tour operators.

Days 7 & 8: San Cristóbal de las Casas

Keep south on Highway 199 toward San Cristóbal. On the way, take a swimming break at Misol-Ha, and visit the ruins of Toniná outside of the town of Ocosingo. From San Cristóbal, go with one of the local guides to see the present-day Maya communities of Chamula and Zinacantan. Spend some time enjoying the town.

Day 9: En Route to Calakmul

Retrace your steps to Escárcega and continue east on Highway 186. If there's time, visit the fascinating sculptures of Balamkú. Spend the night at one of the hotels in the vicinity of the turnoff for Calakmul, one of the prime city-states of the classic age of the Maya, and not often visited.

Day 10: Calakmul & Becán

Get to Calakmul early. Keep your eyes open for wildlife as you drive along a narrow jungle road. All the area surrounding the city is a wildlife preserve. For most of the city's history, Calakmul was the main rival to the city of Tikal, which is present day Guatemala. It eventually defeated Tikal and subjugated it for a hundred years. Calakmul's Structure 2 is the highest Maya pyramid in Mexico. Afterward, continue east on Highway 186 to see the ruins of Becán, a large ceremonial center with tall temples. Also in the vicinity are Xpujil and Chicanná. Spend the night on the shores of Lake Bacalar, where you can cool off in its blue waters.

Days 11 & 12: Tulum

Drive north on Highway 307 to Tulum and settle into one of the small beach hotels there. In the morning, walk through the ruins and enjoy the lovely view of the coast.

Day 13: Back to Cancún

Drive back to Cancún. Depending on your schedule, you can enjoy some more beach time or simply head to the airport (25 min. south of Cancún) and depart.