Introduction to Mexico City

Mexico City is a passionate, cosmopolitan, sprawling metropolis -- and one of the largest cities in the world. In recent years, travelers dismissed Mexico's capital because of its problems with crime, pollution, and unbridled growth. Now that these unsavory trends have begun to reverse, the culturally curious are rediscovering what originally led so many to this magnificent place. I love Mexico City, with all of its urban energy and historic and cultural treasures. Although many compare it to the great cities of Europe, I find it a singular experience. Along with urban sophistication, you'll find enduring traditions that date back to pre-Hispanic civilizations and a strong sense of Latin culture shaped by Spanish influence; it's an endearing mix of the majestically ancient with the irresistibly new.

Standing 2,239m (7,347 ft.) high, on an enormous dry lakebed in a highland valley surrounded by mountains, this was the power center of pre-Hispanic America, and it remains one of the most dynamic, fascinating, and charismatic cities in the world today.

For me, Mexico City is the only place where you can find clear insight into this captivating country -- veiled in mysticism, infused with an appreciation of the moment, and proud of its heritage. Founded in 1325 A.D. as the ancient city of Tenochtitlán, it was the capital of the Aztec Empire and most important city in Mesoamerica by 1428 A.D. Today, Mexico City and its immediate surroundings hold more than 25 million inhabitants -- making it the most populated city in the Western Hemisphere (only Tokyo, in Asia, is larger).

You need only to stand in the center of the zócalo -- the central plaza -- to visually comprehend the undisputed significance of the Mexican capital. Here, the remains of an Aztec pyramid, a colonial church, and a towering modern office building face one another, a testament to the city's prominence in ancient and contemporary history. The Teotihuacán, Toltec, Aztec, and European conquistadors all contributed to the city's fascinating evolution, art, and heritage. Although residents refer to their city as simply México (meh-hee-koh), its multitude of ancient ruins, colonial masterpieces, and modern architecture has prompted others to call it "The City of Palaces."

The central downtown area resembles a European city, dominated by ornate French and Spanish-style buildings and broad boulevards, and interspersed with public art, parks, and gardens. This sprawling city is thoroughly modern and, in places, unsightly and chaotic, but it never strays far from its historical roots. In the center are the partially excavated ruins of the main Aztec temple; pyramids rise just beyond the city.

The sheer number of residents trying to exist here -- amid economic malaise, high unemployment, and government corruption -- has created an environment where petty crime (principally robberies) is common. Several years ago, Mexico City's notoriety came from its rising crime rate, a trend that is fortunately in reverse. Over the past several years, the city has achieved admirable progress in making visitors feel more secure, with special safety programs, faster response to reports of crime, a vastly increased police presence, and programs that are effectively combating corruption. By 2006, Mexico City had reduced crime rates by almost 40% from 1994's historic highs, with only .02% related to visitors to the city.

Violent crime in Mexico is largely concentrated among drug traffickers and politicians, but kidnappings and murders of businesspeople, both Mexican and foreign, are numerous. Mexico City has many treasures, but safety concerns demand that you dress and behave conservatively as you explore the city.

Technically, Mexico City is a federal district (similar to Washington, D.C.), called the Distrito Federal, or D.F. One finds here a microcosm of all that is happening in the rest of the country. It's not just the seat of government; in every way, it's the dominant center of Mexican life.

You've undoubtedly heard about Mexico City's pollution. Major steps to improve the air quality (restricted driving, factory closings, emission-controlled buses and taxis) have worked wonders, but the problem persists. On some days you won't notice it (especially during the summer rainy season); on other days it can make your nose run, your eyes water, and your throat rasp. If you have respiratory problems, be very careful; the city's elevation makes matters even worse. Minimize your exposure to the fumes and refrain from walking busy streets during rush hour. Sunday -- when many factories are closed and many cars escape the city -- should be your prime outdoor day. One positive note: In the evenings, the air is often deliciously cool and relatively clean.

Mexico City is a feast of urban energy, culture, dining, and shopping. The city has sidewalk cafes and cantinas; bazaars and boutiques; pyramids, monuments, and museums; and a multitude of entertainment options. And when you've had your fill of the city, it's easy to explore memorable towns and historic national landmarks only a couple of hours away in any direction.