Restaurants

Dining in Mexico City is sophisticated, with cuisine that spans the globe. From high chic to the standard Mexican comida corrida (food on the go), the capital offers something for every taste and budget. The Polanco area, in particular, has become a place of exquisite dining options, with new restaurants rediscovering and modernizing classic Mexican dishes. The Centro Histórico led a resurgence of popular restaurants and bars open for late-night dining and nightlife, which has spread to the Condesa and Roma neighborhoods -- which you can easily stroll to find a number of restaurants and cuisines. Cantinas, until not so very long ago the privilege of men only, offer some of the best food and colorful local atmosphere. San Angel houses some of Mexico City's finest traditional restaurants.

Everybody eats out in Mexico City, regardless of social class. Consequently, you can find restaurants of every type, size, and price range scattered across the city. Mexicans take their food and dining seriously, so if you see a full house, that's generally recommendation enough. But those same places may be entirely empty if you arrive early -- remember, here lunch is generally eaten at 3pm, with dinner not seriously considered before 9pm. Many establishments add a "cover" charge of $2 to $4 per person to the bill.

Zona Rosa & Surrounding Areas -- If you're up for a culinary adventure, dine at the student-staffed Cordon Bleu Casa de Francia, Havre 15, Zona Rosa (tel. 55/5208-1868; www.lcbmexico.com/restaurante.cfm), a training ground for Mexico's up-and-coming chefs. The restaurant occupies two lovely dining rooms inside the Casa de Francia, a French cultural center. The menu varies; it's a great way to sample imaginative variations on classics and local cuisine. Wines by the glass are available. It's open Monday to Wednesday from 8:30am to 6pm, Thursday to Friday from 8:30am to 11pm, and Saturday 8:30am to 6pm.

Taking It to the Streets

While Mexico City is home to some of the world's best upscale restaurants, the real culinary adventures can be found sizzling in the street. If you're on a budget, street food can also keep you sustained for cheap. Just about every colonia has its own street food puesto of choice. The best way to find good street food is to ask a variety of different residents and note when the same answer repeatedly comes up. If you make it to only one street food purveyor while you're in town, Tacos Chupacabra in Coyoacán is your best bet. It's located under the Viaducto Río Churubusco near the posh Centro Coyoacán shopping mall. Don't be scared away by the fact that it's located under a freeway bridge. You came to Mexico for the ambience, right? The tacos are delicious, and toppings include everything from spicy mashed potatoes to jalapeño-flavored carrots. The place is always hopping with university students and locals headed to and from the Coyoacán Metro stop. Wash down one of the 127-herb tacos with a bottle of tasty fruit-flavored Jaritos pop. If you're watching your weight, you can order a "Chupas light," which are made with one tortilla instead of two. You can have a feast for less than 50 pesos.

Some other great finds are Tacos Hola, on the corner of Michoacán and Amsterdam in Condesa (no phone; www.tacoshola.com); El Califa (tel. 55/5271-6285), on Altata 22 in Condesa; Beatricita (tel. 55/5511-4213), on Londres between Florencia and Varsovia in Zona Rosa; or, for a real Mexico City treat, try the sope stand on Rio Nilo and Rio Nazas in Colonia Cuauhtéhmoc.

Mexico City has several other unique street food offerings, which can be found in just about every neighborhood. Tlacoyos consist of a thick, oval-shaped blue-corn tortilla stuffed with either beans, cheese, or fava beans and topped with cream, lettuce, and any number of meats. Unique to the capital are tortas de tamal, which are essentially tamal sandwiches with salsa on top. Another favorite is elotes, or corn on the cob served on a stick, popsicle style. If you add all the possible toppings -- mayonnaise, cream, Oaxacan cheese, chili, lime, and pepper -- you can easily double the weight of your delicious cornsicle. A good place to have a street food smorgasbord is the antojitos (little snacks) market just off the main square behind the Guadalupana church in Coyoacán.

¡Café, Por Favor!

In Mexico, the preparation and consumption of espresso have been considered an art form for generations. You can find the best coffee in small cafes with a crowd of regulars who congregate to catch up on the local chisme (gossip).

Café La Habana, downtown at Bucareli and Morelos, is one of the most famous, a longstanding cafe with a rich history -- and a reputation for strong coffees, all roasted and ground in-house. Ask the waiter and he'll tell you how Fidel Castro and Ché Guevara planned the Cuban revolution while sipping an espresso cortao. Strangely, it's Mexican and not Cuban food served here. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 7am to 11:30pm, Friday and Saturday from 7am to 1am, and Sunday from 8am to 10pm.

In the Centro Histórico near the Zócalo, Mumedi, Francisco I. Madero 74, is a hip designer cafe popular with artists, architects, and graphic designers. Attached to the cafe is a bookstore and gallery featuring contemporary art objects and changing exhibitions. It's open Tuesday through Sunday from 8am to 9pm and Monday from 11:30am to 9pm.

European-style coffeehouses are in the Zona Rosa, frequented by businesspeople and trendy urban residents. Some of the most popular are Salón de Té Auseba and Duca d'Este, both on Hamburgo near Florencia. They serve excellent coffee and scrumptious cakes, as well as a variety of herbal teas. The sidewalk cafe Konditori, Genova 61, is another good option, on a pedestrian-only street. It's open daily 7am to midnight.

The Condesa neighborhood, east of Chapultepec Park, is another top cafe zone. El Péndulo, Nuevo León 115, close to Insurgentes, is a favorite. It combines its cafe setting with a book and music store and tends to draw intellectuals, writers, and students. It frequently hosts live music and poetry readings. It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to 11pm and weekends from 10am to 11pm. There's another branch in the Zona Rosa at Hamburgo 126.