Nightlife

From mariachi, reggae, and opera to folkloric dance, classical ballet, and dinner shows, the choice of nighttime entertainment in Mexico City is enormous and sophisticated. It costs much less than comparable entertainment in most of the world's major cities. If you're willing to let la vida mexicana put on its own fascinating show for you, the bill will be even lower. People-watching, cafe-sitting, music, and even a dozen mariachi bands all playing at once can be yours for next to nothing. For those looking for the hottest spots in dance clubs, head straight for the Condesa and Roma neighborhoods.

Crime at Night -- Make sure to leave valuables -- especially watches and jewelry -- at your hotel, and bring only the cash you will need. While I list Metro stops, these should probably be used only for orientation; take only authorized sitio taxis or hire a private taxi by the hour and have an escort wait for you as you sample the festivities of the city. Your hotel can help with these arrangements.

The Entertainment Scene

Mexico City boasts a world-class nightlife scene, with hot venues for downing tequila and dancing to music ranging from salsa to house. In recent years, the Centro Histórico downtown has earned a reputation for having a number of hip and edgy bars and clubs concentrated within walking distance. The posh Polanco neighborhood is known for its perennially hot dining and bar scene, and in recent years many of the trendiest nightspots have opened in the Condesa and Roma neighborhoods (reputedly the SoHo of Mexico City, though the nightlife scene is more akin to New York's East Village). Some of the city's most exclusive nightclubs lie in the Lomas area. In the south of the city, San Angel remains highly popular, although it's a bit of a drive if you're not already staying in that area. Most bars don't even begin to get going until around 10 or 11pm and usually stay open until at least 3am; nightclubs get started after midnight and continue into the wee hours. Many clubs operate only Thursday through Saturday.

Fiesta nights give visitors a chance to dine on typical Mexican food and see wonderful regional dancing, which seems always to be a treat no matter how many times you've seen it.

For lower-key nightlife and people-watching, outdoor cafes remain a popular option. Those in the neighborhoods of Polanco and Condesa are among the liveliest. Another tradition is Garibaldi Square, where mariachis tune up and wait to be hired, but be especially careful -- it's now known as much for chronic street crime as for music.

Hotel lobby bars tend to have live entertainment of the low-key type in the late afternoon and into the evening.

The Performing Arts

Mexico City's performing arts scene is among the finest and most comprehensive in the world. It includes opera, theater, ballet, and dance, along with concerts of symphonic, rock, and popular music.

For current information on cultural offerings, Donde Ir, Tiempo Libre, and Concierge, free magazines found in hotels, are good sources for locating the newest places, though they don't have complete listings of changing entertainment or current exhibits. Ticketmaster (tel. 55/5325-9000) usually handles ticket sales for major performances.

The Ballet Folklórico de México (Folkloric Ballet of Mexico), with its stunning presentation of regional dance, is perhaps the city's most renowned entertainment for visitors.

Note: The majority of the theatrical performances at the Palacio de Bellas Artes and in other theaters around the city are presented in Spanish.

Club & Music Scene

This warning can't be reiterated enough: Take an authorized sitio taxi or hire a car for transportation to all nightspots. Metro stops are given merely as a point of reference.

A Note of Caution in Garibaldi Square -- Plaza de Garibaldi, especially at night, is known for thieves looking to separate tourists from their valuables. Although the police presence has increased, it's still best to visit by private taxi. If you go, don't take credit cards or excess money with you. Go with a crowd of friends rather than alone, or take a tour that includes Garibaldi.

Mariachis

Mariachis play the music of Mexico. Although the songs they play may be familiar -- ranging from traditional boleros to ranchera -- their style and presentation are unique to Mexico. Known for their distinctive dress, strolling presentation, and mix of brass and guitars, they epitomize the romance and tradition of the country. They look a little like Mexican cowboys dressed up for a special occasion -- tight trousers studded with silver buttons down the outside of the legs, elaborate cropped jackets, embroidered shirts with big bow ties, and grandiose sombrero hats. The dress dates to the French occupation of Mexico in the mid-19th century, as does the name. Mariachi is believed to be an adaptation of the French word for marriage; this was the type of music commonly played at weddings in the 15th and 16th centuries. The music is a derivative of fandango, which was the most popular dance music of the elite classes in 16th-century Spain. In Mexico, fandango became the peasant's song and dance. Among the most famous mariachi songs are Mexico Lindo, El Rey, Guadalajara, Cielito Lindo, and La Cucaracha.

In Mexico City, the mariachis make their headquarters around the Plaza de Garibaldi, 5 blocks north of the Palacio de Bellas Artes -- up Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas, at Avenida República de Honduras. The plaza is liveliest at night, when at every corner guitars are stacked together like rifles in an army camp. Young musicians strut proudly in their outfits, on the lookout for señoritas to impress. They play when they feel like it, when there's a good chance to gather some tips, or when someone orders a song -- the going rate is $7 (£3.50) per song, or $150 (£75) per hour, which is negotiable. The most famous cantina on the plaza is Salón Tenampa, at Plaza Garabaldi 12 (tel. 55/5526-6176), which serves traditional Mexican food as well as every type of tequila amid spirited surroundings. It's open daily from 1pm to 3am, and often later on the weekend.

Should you be seeking mariachi music in a more refined setting, I recommend Jorongo Bar.