Getting Around

Mexico City has a highly developed and remarkably cheap public transportation system. It is a shame that the sharp increase in crime and resulting safety concerns have made these less comfortable options for travelers. The Metro, first- and second-class buses, colectivos, and yellow or green VW Beetle taxis will take you anywhere you want to go for very little money -- but the recent visitor warnings about the use of public transportation should be respected. Because sitio taxis (official taxis registered to a specific locale or hotel) are relatively inexpensive and the safest way to travel within the city, you are best off using them.

By Taxi

"Turismo" Taxis -- These are by far the safest way to travel within Mexico City. The unmarked cabs, usually well-kept luxury cars assigned to specific hotels, have special license plates, and bags covering their meters. Although more expensive than the VW and libre taxis (usually Nissan Tsurus), "turismo" taxis, along with radio-dispatched sitio taxis, are the safest ones to use. The drivers negotiate rates with individual passengers for sightseeing, but rates to and from the airport are established. Ask the bell captain what the airport fare should be, and establish it before taking off. These drivers are often licensed English-speaking guides and can provide exceptional service. In general, expect to pay around $15 (£8.25) per hour for guided service, and about 15% more than metered rates for normal transportation. Often, these drivers will wait for you while you shop or dine to take you back to the hotel, or they can be called to come back and pick you up.

Metered Taxis -- Yellow or green VW Beetle and libre cabs provide low-cost service. Although you may encounter a gouging driver or one who advances the meter or drives farther than necessary to run up the tab, most service is quick and adequate. These taxis operate strictly by the meter: If the driver says his meter isn't working, find another taxi. But then, you will be heeding the warnings, and won't be using one anyway . . . now, will you?

Important Taxi Safety Precautions in Mexico City -- There has been a marked increase in violent crime against both residents and tourists using taxis for transportation in Mexico City, concentrated among users of Volkswagen Beetle taxis. Robberies of taxi passengers have become increasingly violent, with beatings and even murders reported. Victims have included U.S. citizens. Many times the robberies involve taking passengers to an ATM, where they are forced to withdraw whatever limit their card or cards will allow.

If you plan to use a taxi from the airport or bus stations, use only an authorized airport cab with all the familiar markings: yellow car, white taxi light on the roof, and TRANSPORTACION TERRESTRE painted on the doors. Buy your ticket from the clearly marked taxi booth inside the terminal -- nowhere else. After purchasing your ticket, go outside to the line of taxis, where an official taxi chief will direct you to the next taxi in line. Don't follow anyone else.

In Mexico City, do not hail a passing taxi on the street. Most hotels have official taxi drivers who are recognized and regulated by the terminal and city; they are considered safe taxis to use. These are known as authorized or sitio taxis. Hotels and restaurants can call the radio-dispatched taxis. Official Radio Taxis (tel. 55/5271-9146, -9058, or 5273-6125) are also considered safe. You can hire one of these taxis from your hotel; the driver will frequently act as your personal driver and escort you through your travels in the city. This is a particularly advisable option at night.

All official taxis, except the expensive "turismo" cars, are painted predominantly yellow, orange, or green, have white plastic roof signs bearing the word TAXI, have TAXI or SITIO painted on the doors, and are equipped with meters. Look for all these indications, not just one or two of them. Even then, be cautious. The safest cars to use are sedan taxis (luxury cars without markings) dispatched from four- and five-star hotels. They are the most expensive, but worth it?taxi crime in Mexico City is very real.

Do not use VW Beetle taxis, which are frequently involved in robberies of tourists. Even though they are the least expensive taxis, you could be taking your life into your hands should you opt to use one. In any case, never get in a taxi that does not display a large 5X7-inch laminated license card with a picture of the driver on it; it's usually hanging from the door chain or glove box, or stuck behind the sun visor. If there is no license, or if the photo doesn't match the driver, don't get in. It's illegal for a taxi to operate without the license in view. No matter what vehicle you use for transportation, lock the doors as soon as you get in. Do not carry credit cards, your passport, or large sums of cash, or wear expensive jewelry when taking taxis.

By Metro

As you enter the station, buy a boleto at the glass taquilla (ticket booth). Insert your ticket into the slot at the turnstile and pass through; inside, you'll see two large signs showing the line's destination (for example, for Line 1, it's OBSERVATORIO and PANTITLÁN). Follow the signs in the direction you want and know where you're going; there is usually only one map of the routes, at the entrance to the station. You'll see two signs everywhere: SALIDA (exit) and ANDENES (platforms). Once inside the train, you'll see above each door a map of the station stops for that line with symbols and names.

CORRESPONDENCIAS indicates transfer points. The ride is smooth, fast, and efficient (although hot and crowded during rush hours). The beautifully designed stations are clean and have the added attraction of displaying archaeological ruins unearthed during construction. A subterranean passage goes between the Pino Suárez and Zócalo stations, so you can avoid the crowds and rain along Pino Suárez. The Zócalo station features dioramas and large photographs of the different periods in the history of the Valley of Mexico. At Pino Suárez you'll find the foundation of a pyramid from the Aztec Empire.

The Metro is crowded during daylight hours on weekdays and consequently pretty hot and muggy in summer. In fact, you may find it virtually unusable downtown between 4 and 7pm on weekdays, because of sardine-can conditions. At some stations, there are even separate lanes roped off for women and children; the press of the crowd is so great that someone might get molested. Buses, colectivos, and taxis are all heavily used during these hours, less so during off hours (such as 10:30am-noon). Avoid the crowds by traveling during off-peak hours, or simply wait a few minutes for the next train.

The Subway Skinny -- The Metro system runs workdays from 5am to 12:30am, Saturday from 6am to 1:30am, and Sunday and holidays from 7am to 12:30am. Baggage larger than a small carry-on is not allowed on the trains. In practice, this means that bulky suitcases or backpacks will make you persona non grata. On an average day, Mexico City's Metro handles more than five million riders -- leaving little room for bags! But in effect, if no one stops you as you enter, you're in.

Watch your bags and your pockets. Metro pickpockets prey on the unwary (especially foreigners) and are very crafty -- on a crowded train, they've been known to empty a fanny pack from the front. Be careful, and carry valuables inside your clothing. Women should avoid traveling alone.

By Bus

Moving millions of people through this sprawling urban mass is a gargantuan task, but the city officials do a pretty good job of it. Bus stops on the major tourist streets usually have a map posted with the full route description.

The large buses that used to run on the major tourist routes (Reforma and Insurgentes) tended to become overpacked and have been phased out in favor of smaller, more frequent buses. Crowding is now uncommon except perhaps during peak hours. The cost in pesos is the U.S. equivalent of 25¢ to 50¢ (15p-30p). Although the driver usually has change, try to have exact fare or at least a few coins when you board.

One of the most important bus routes runs between the zócalo and the Auditorio (National Auditorium in Chapultepec Park) or the Observatorio Metro station. The route is Avenida Madero or Cinco de Mayo, Avenida Juárez, and Paseo de la Reforma. Buses marked ZÓCALO run this route.

Another important route is Indios Verdes-Tlalpan, which runs along Avenida Insurgentes, connecting the northern bus terminal (Terminal Norte), Buenavista railroad station, Reforma, the Zona Rosa, and, far to the south, San Angel and University City.

By Colectivo

Also called peseros or combis, these are sedans or minibuses, usually green and gray, that run along major arteries. They pick up and discharge passengers along the route, charge established fares, and provide slightly more comfort and speed than the bus. Cards in the windshield display routes; often a Metro station is the destination. One of the most useful routes for tourists runs from the zócalo along Avenida Juárez, along Reforma to Chapultepec, and back again. Board a colectivo with a sign saying ZOCALO, not VILLA. (The Villa route goes to the Basílica de Guadalupe.) Some of the minibuses on this route have automatic sliding doors -- you don't have to shut them.

As the driver approaches a stop, he may put his hand out the window and hold up one or more fingers. This is the number of passengers he's willing to take on (vacant seats are difficult to see if you're outside the car).

By Tourist Bus

An increasingly popular way to see the city is on one of the red double-decker Turibuses (tel. 55/5133-2488; www.turibus.com.mx), put into service in 2002 to see sights around the capital. Each of the double-decker buses seats 75 and offers audio information in five languages, plus street maps. The buses operate from 9am to 9pm, with unlimited hop-on, hop-off privileges after paying $10 (£5.50) for a day pass ($11/£6.05 weekends). There are 25 stops at major monuments, museums, neighborhoods, and landmarks along the 35km (22-mile) route, which runs from the National Auditorium to the city center (including the zócalo) and from there to La Plaza de las Tres Culturas (Square of the Three Cultures), returning via Reforma Avenue towards the posh neighborhood of Polanco and finally to Museo del Niño (Children's Museum). The full circuit takes a little under 3 hours.

By Rental Car

If you plan to travel to Puebla or a surrounding area, a rental car might come in handy. But using taxis and the Metro eliminates the risk of getting lost in an unsavory area. And due to high rates of auto theft, I don't recommend renting a car. But if you do, the least-expensive rental car is the (old-style) manual-shift Volkswagen Beetle, manufactured in Mexico. The price jump is considerable beyond the VW Beetle, and you pay more for automatic transmission and air-conditioning in any car.

If you still feel the need to rent a car in Mexico City, you can leave the driving to someone else -- Avis offers chauffeur-driven rental cars at its nine locations in the Mexican capital. Prices begin at around $100 (£55) per day, which includes taxes, insurance, and unlimited mileage, with fuel extra. The chauffeur is on an 8-hour shift, but the car is available to the customer for 24 hours. For information and reservations, call Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S.).