Convent of San Bernardino de Siena

Frommer's Review

This 16th-century building is noted for its flower petals carved in stone -- a signature of the Indians who did most of the work -- on 16th-century retablos (painted boards) including one of three such altarpieces in the country that were created by pre-Hispanic Indians and that has miraculously been preserved for more than 400 years; most were destroyed by the Spaniards during the conquest and conversion to Christianity. The last Indian governor of Xochimilco, Apoxquiyohuatzin, is buried here. Inside and to the right, the skull over the font is from a pre-Hispanic skull rack signifying an Indian-Christian mixture of the concept of life and death. Eight lateral retablos date from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The fabulous gilt main altar, also from the 16th century, is like an open book with sculpture and religious paintings. A profusion of cherubic angels decorates columns and borders. Some of the altar paintings are attributed to Baltasar Echave Orio the Elder. Over the altar, above the figure of Christ, is San Bernardino with the caciques (local authorities) dressed in clothing with Indian elements, and without shoes.

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