Nightlife

With all the hype, you'd expect Miami to have long outlived its 15 minutes of fame by now. But you'd be wrong. Miami's nightlife, in South Beach and, slowly but surely, downtown, is hotter than ever before -- and still getting hotter. Practically every club in the area has installed closely guarded velvet ropes to create an air of exclusivity. Don't be fooled or intimidated by them -- anyone can go clubbing in the Magic City, and throughout this chapter, I've provided tips to ensure that you gain entry to your desired venue.

South Beach is certainly Miami's uncontested nocturnal nucleus, but more and more diverse areas, such as the Design District, South Miami, and even Little Havana, are increasingly providing fun alternatives without the ludicrous cover charges, "fashionably late" hours of operation (things don't typically get started on South Beach until after 11pm), the lack of sufficient self-parking, and outrageous drink prices that are standard in South Beach.

While South Beach dances to a more electronic beat, other parts of Miami dance to a Latin beat -- from salsa and merengue to tango and cha cha. However, if you're looking for a less frenetic good time, Miami's bar scene has something for everyone, from haute hotel bars to sleek, loungey watering holes.

Parts of downtown, such as the Biscayne Corridor, the Miami River, and the Design District, are undergoing a trendy makeover à la New York City's Meatpacking District. Cool lounges, bars, and clubs are popping up and providing the "in" crowds with a newer, more urban-chic nocturnal pasture.

But if the possibility of a celebrity sighting in one of the city's lounges, bars, or clubs doesn't fulfill your cultural needs, Miami also provides a variety of first-rate diversions in theater, music, and dance, including a world-class ballet (under the aegis of Edward Villella), a recognized symphony, and a talented opera company. The new Cesar Pelli-designed, $446-million Carnival Center for the Performing Arts, which, at the time of this writing was about to be renamed the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts of Miami-Dade County after the philanthropist gave $30 million to the financially troubled center, is the focal point for the arts, created to prove to the world that Miami isn't as shallow and devoid of culture as people once thought.

For up-to-date listing information, and to make sure the club of the moment hasn't expired, check the Miami Herald's "Weekend" section, which runs on Friday, or the more comprehensive listings in New Times, Miami's free alternative weekly, available each Wednesday; or visit www.miami.citysearch.com online.

Rock 'n' Bowl -- A new kind of nightlife debuted in South Beach in 2005 in the form of Lucky Strike Lanes, 1691 Michigan Ave., South Beach (tel. 305/532-0307; www.bowlluckystrike.com), which keeps you off the streets, but in the gutters. Low lighting, glow-in-the-dark pins, and loud music keep things rolling day and night from 11am until 2am. If you're not in the mood to bowl, the restaurant and bar are always hopping, too. Games are $4.95 to $7.95 depending on the time you're there or $55 to $75 an hour; shoes are an extra $4. After 9pm, you have to be 21 and older to enter.

Cinemas

In addition to the annual Miami Film Festival in February and other, smaller film events, Miami has nearly as many multiplex cinemas as it does palm trees. But if 40 screens of Jurassic Park III aren't your idea of a day at the movies, consider the following artsy theaters, known for showing lots of subtitled, foreign films as well as those that get bumped off the big screen by the Jurassic Parks of the celluloid world.

Bill Cosford Cinema, at the University of Miami, is on the second floor of the memorial building off Campo Sano Avenue (tel. 305/284-4861). This well-endowed little theater has been revamped and boasts high-tech projectors, air-conditioning, and a new decor. It sponsors independent films as well as lectures by visiting filmmakers and movie stars. It also hosts the African American Film Festival, a Student Film Festival, and collaborations with the Fort Lauderdale Festival (a very small film festival). Admission is $6; seniors pay $3.

Miami Beach Cinematheque, 508 Española Way (tel. 305/673-4567; www.mbcinema.com), is the kind of place where people who call movies "films" like to hang out, with comfy couches and very arty, foreign, domestic, and classic flicks. Admission ranges from $8 to $10.

The Literary Scene

Books & Books, in Coral Gables at 265 Aragon Ave. and in Miami Beach at 933 Lincoln Rd., hosts readings almost every night and is known for attracting such top authors as Colleen McCullough, Jamaica Kincaid, and Martin Amis. For details on their free readings, call tel. 305/442-4408.

To hear more about what's happening on Miami's literary scene, tune into the "Cover to Cover" radio show, broadcast at 8pm on Mondays on public radio station WLRN (91.3 FM).

Late-Night Bites

Although some dining spots in Miami stop serving at 10pm, many are open very late or even around the clock -- especially on weekends. So, if it's 4am and you need a quick bite after clubbing, don't fret. There are a vast number of pizza places lining Washington Avenue in South Beach that are open past 6am. Especially good are La Sandwicherie, 229 14th St. (behind the Amoco station; tel. 305/532-8934), which serves up a great late-night sandwich until 5am; and its next-door neighbor San Loco Tacos (235 14th St.; tel. 305/538-3009), which slings tacos until 5am on weeknights and 6am on weekends. Another place of note for night owls is the News Café, 800 Ocean Dr. (tel. 305/538-6397), a trendy and well-priced cafe that has an enormous menu offering great all-day breakfasts, Middle Eastern platters, fruit bowls, or steak and potatoes -- and everything is served 24 hours a day. If you're craving a corned beef on rye at 5am, Jerry's Famous Deli, 1450 Collins Ave. (tel. 305/534-3244), is open 24/7. If your night out was at one of the Latin clubs around town, stop in at Versailles, 3555 SW 8th St. (tel. 305/444-0240), in Little Havana. What else but a Cuban medianoche (midnight sandwich) will do? It's not open all night, but its hours extend well past midnight -- usually until 3 or 4am on weekends -- to cater to gangs of revelers, young and old.

Gambling

Although gambling is technically illegal in Miami, there are plenty of loopholes that allow all kinds of wagering. Gamblers can try their luck at offshore casinos or on shore at bingo, jai alai, card rooms, horse tracks, dog races, and Native American reservations. You can also drive up to Broward County, where the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino (www.seminolehardrock.com) and the new Gulfstream Park Casino and Racing (www.gulfstreampark.com) in Hallandale both offer slots and poker.

Despite the Hard Rock in Hollywood's behemoth presence on the gambling circuit, some people prefer the less flashy Miccosukee Indian Gaming, 500 SW 177th Ave. (off S.R. 41, in West Miami on the outskirts of the Everglades; tel. 800/741-4600 or 305/222-4600), where a touch of Vegas meets west Miami. This tacky casino isn't Caesar's Palace, but you can play tab slots, high-speed bingo (watch out for the serious blue-haired players who will scoff if you make too much noise or if you win before they do), and even poker (with a $10 maximum pot). With more than 85,000 square feet of playing space, the complex even provides overnight accommodations for those who can't get enough of the thrill and don't want to make the approximately 1-hour trip back to downtown Miami. Take the Florida Turnpike south toward Florida City/Key West. Take the SW 8th Street exit (#25) and turn left onto SW 8th Street. Drive for about 3 1/2 miles and then turn left onto Krome Avenue, and left again at 177th Street; you can't miss it.

Recently, many of Miami's sketchier gambling-cruise operators have been shut down. The classiest and most legitimate gambling cruise still in business is the Aquasino, which docks at the Miami Beach Marina. This 228-foot yacht has more than 200 slot machines, 22 blackjack tables, craps, poker, baccarat, roulette, a sportsbook room with 42-inch plasma TVs, a full blown gourmet buffet, and several lounges. Live DJs on the upper deck and Vegas-style entertainment keeps the non gamblers busy, too. Price, $40, includes free parking at the marina, complimentary cocktail, gourmet buffet and more drinks -- if you're gambling. Ships sail Monday and Tuesday 7:30pm to 12:30am, Wednesday to Friday noon to 5pm and 7:30pm to 12:30am, Saturday 11am to 4:30pm and 7:30pm to 1:30am, and Sunday 11am to 4:30pm and 7:30pm to 12:30am. Call tel. 305/532-0021 or www.aquasinosouthbeach.com for updated schedules. You must be 21 or older to sail.