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I’m finding the cuisine of Peru seems to be the flavor of the decade in Miami, which has of course spawned lots of overpriced nouvel treatment. But this beige-tiled longtime stalwart (founded by Mario Abanto in 1997) is the real, honest Inca deal, with its classic takes on ceviche, papa a la huancaína (potatoes in creamy, cheesy sauce with a touch of zing), ají de gallina (chicken in the same sauce) and a long menu of savory beef, chicken, and especially seafood dishes that’ll leave you wanting more. The original, by the way, El Chalán, is out west near Tropical Park and the Palmetto Expressway at 7971 Bird Rd., [tel] 305/266-0212.