Exploring the Area

Western Michigan Beaches

Strung along the entire West Michigan shoreline, from Mackinaw City in the north to the Warren Dunes in the south, is a solid strip of sandy white beaches, the finest in the Midwest. A quick glance at any Michigan map reveals scores of sunning and swimming options. State parks provide inexpensive access ($6 per day, $24 per year for state residents; $8 per day, $29 per year for nonresidents). And the parks often feature great campgrounds. (Reserve your site early -- a year in advance if possible.) You can get more information by calling tel. 800/44-PARKS or checking online at www.michigan.gov/dnr.

Traverse City

Traverse City, in Michigan's northwestern Lower Peninsula, is known for boutique shopping, wineries, and a vibrant arts scene as well as its beaches. Traverse City State Park, 1132 U.S. 31 N. (tel. 231/922-5270), and Bayside Park, U.S. 31 North, 8 miles east in Acme, both offer great beaches, swimming, and picnicking. Twenty-five miles east, near Empire on M-22, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (tel. 231/326-5134; www.nps.gov/slbe) boasts some of the best beaches and dunes in the state. Contact the Traverse City Convention & Visitors Bureau (tel. 800/TRAVERS; www.mytraversecity.com) for information.

Where to Stay & Dine

The Victorian-style Bayshore Resort, 833 E. Front St. (tel. 800/634-4401 or 231/935-4400; www.bayshore-resort.com), has doubles beginning at $170. The Grand Beach Resort Hotel, 1683 U.S. 31 N. (tel. 800/968-1992 or 231/938-4455; www.grandbeach.com), is a great family choice, with doubles starting at $139. Both hotels include continental breakfast and are right on the beach. For pampering, visit the Grand Traverse Resort & Spa, 100 Grand Traverse Blvd., Acme (off U.S. 31 North; tel. 800/236-1577; www.grandtraverseresort.com), which features newish guest rooms, a trio of 18-hole golf courses, shopping, dining, and a spa. Doubles begin at $155.

For dining out, head to Traverse City's Front Street downtown, where you'll find a wide array of choices. For a special evening out, try the contemporary Italian Trattoria Stella, 1200 W. 11th St. (tel. 231/929-8989; www.stellatc.com), a beautiful brick turn-of-the-20th-century manse on the wooded grounds of Grand Traverse Commons. Expect an extensive wine list and a changing menu based on the availability of fresh local ingredients and Atlantic and Pacific seafood.

Ludington

It's worth a trip just to experience the pristine 8-mile dune drive along Ludington's shoreline. Wild dune vistas and superb swimming beaches are dotted with free parking, both in Ludington City Park (Lakeshore Dr.) and Ludington State Park (tel. 231/843-2423), on M-116. Both parks offer sugar sand beaches and "Big Lake" boating; the latter includes massive dunes, a lighthouse, and Hamlin Lake, a calmer (and warmer) inland option. For more information, contact the Ludington Convention and Visitors Bureau (tel. 877/420-6618; www.ludingtoncvb.com).

Where to Stay & Dine

You'll find many chain hotels on U.S. 10 between U.S. 31 and Ludington. If you want to be near the beach, your best bet is Snyder's Shoreline Inn, 903 W. Ludington Ave. (tel. 231/845-1261; www.snydersshoreinn.com), across the street from the city beach. Doubles begin at $115. B&B choices include The Lamplighter, 602 E. Ludington Ave. (tel. 800/301-9792 or 231/843-9792; www.ludington-michigan.com), with doubles for $125 to $160; kids are not allowed. The Inn at Ludington, 701 E. Ludington Ave. (tel. 800/845-9170 or 231/845-7055; www.inn-ludington.com), offers doubles for $90 to $165; children under 10 stay free. Both properties include full breakfast and are within walking distance of Lake Michigan. Ludington State Park has three campgrounds.

Most restaurants are clustered along Ludington Avenue, but two good choices are P. M. Steamers, 502 W. Loomis St. (tel. 231/843-9555; www.pmsteamers.com), which features casual American fare and a waterfront view; and Scotty's, 5910 E. Ludington Ave. (tel. 231/843-4033), famous for its prime rib and seafood.

Holland

Holland enjoys four great beaches: Holland State Park, 2215 Ottawa Beach Rd. (tel. 616/399-9390); Oval Beach, Oval Drive just off Perryman Street, Saugatuck; Dunes State Park, western end of 138th Avenue, Saugatuck (tel. 616/637-2788); and Tunnel Park, 66 Lakeshore Dr. (tel. 616/738-4810), named for the dune tunnel that connects the playground area to the beach. All four have picnic and playground facilities, but it's the huge, white beaches that attract thousands every year. For details, contact the Holland Convention and Visitors Bureau (tel. 800/506-1299; www.holland.org).

Where to Stay & Dine

Holland's chain hotels cluster largely along U.S. 31. For a quieter, downtown location, try the Haworth Inn, 225 College Ave. (tel. 800/903-9142 or 616/395-7200; www.haworthinn.com), with doubles starting at $105, including continental breakfast. Want to stay near the beach? Shaded Oaks B&B, 444 Oak St. (tel. 616/399-4194; www.shadedoaks.com), offers a guesthouse and two lovely suites (one with a two-person soaking tub, the other with a fireplace) starting at $169, including full breakfast.

Several restaurants are located in downtown Holland on or near 8th Street. Favorites include Alpenrose, 4 E. 8th St. (tel. 616/393-2111; www.alpenroserestaurant.com), featuring German and Austrian fare; and Butch's, 44 E. 8th St. (tel. 616/396-8227; www.butchs.net), a deli and wine shop by day and fine-dining restaurant by night.

Mackinac Island

Set in the waters separating Michigan's upper and lower peninsulas, Mackinac (pronounced Mack-i-naw) Island is one of Michigan's loveliest and most romantic destinations. Cars are strictly prohibited; visitors get around the island on foot, bicycles, and horse-drawn carriages. The lack of modern transportation cultivates the sense of 19th-century nostalgia pervading the island, a veritable storehouse of beautifully restored Victorian homes. Mackinac Island State Park (tel. 906/847-3328; www.mackinacparks.com) constitutes 80% of the island. For more information, contact the Mackinac Island Chamber of Commerce (tel. 800/454-5227; www.mackinacisland.org).

The oldest structure in Michigan, and one of the few remaining Revolutionary War-era ruins in the nation, Fort Mackinac (tel. 906/436-4100; www.mackinacparks.com) looms high on a bluff overlooking the Straits of Mackinac. Originally a British outpost, Fort Mackinac was conquered by American soldiers 20 years after the Revolution. In addition to housing historic ruins, the Fort hosts Victorian children's games; bagpipe, bugle, and drum corps music; hourly rifle and cannon firings; and military reenactments performed by costumed interpreters.

Another prime vantage on the straits can be had from the porch at the Grand Hotel (tel. 906/847-3331), a National Historic Landmark. The veranda exudes romance and is a focal point on the world's largest summer hotel, built in 1887. For $10 you can tour this lovely landmark hotel , drink cocktails, and take in the view. The price of your ticket will be deducted from any hotel restaurant meals.

If you like to bike, take a spin around the island, following an 8-mile circuit on Mich. 185 (Lake Shore Rd). The view of the straits is spellbinding from here and you can rubberneck without fear given the prohibition on motorized vehicles. Bike rentals ($4-$8 per hour for single speed, tandems and mountain bikes) are available throughout downtown. Ask about day rates and children's seats.

For an easier tour of the island, travel via horse and buggy with Mackinac Island Carriage Tours (tel. 906/847-3307; $19 adults, $8 children 5-12). Trips begin near the boat docks in the center of the shopping district and last about 2 hours. Sites include the Governor's Mansion, the Grand Hotel, Fort Mackinac and Arch Rock, a limestone formation that is among the island's most popular natural attractions.

Mackinac's newest attractions include two butterfly conservatories. The Mackinac Island Butterfly House, 1308 McGulpin St. (tel. 906/847-3972; $5 adults, $2 children 6-12); and the Wings of Mackinac, north of the Grand Hotel on Carriage Road (tel. 906/847-9464; $5.50 adults, $2.50 children 5-12). Downtown, a smattering of shops and galleries are worth an afternoon stroll. Don't leave the island without sampling its famous fudge -- affectionately known as "fudgies." Many downtown shops sell the island's favorite confection to tourists.

Where to Stay & Dine

Everyone should experience fine living at the Grand Hotel (tel. 800/33-GRAND or 906/847-3331; www.grandhotel.com) at least once. The comfortable rooms are each decorated individually, some with balconies and lake views. If money's no object, the suites are exceptionally luxurious; many are named and themed after famous figures, including six First Lady rooms. Resort grounds include tennis courts, a beautiful outdoor pool, an 18-hole golf course, and formal gardens. Doubles start at $345, including elaborate breakfast and dinner daily, horse-drawn shuttle service, and all tips. A great family resort is Mission Point (tel. 800/833-7711 or 906/847-3312; www.missionpoint.com), with 18 acres on the lakefront and a host of recreational facilities. Doubles begin at $194. Other moderately priced choices include the family-run Hotel Iroquois, Main Street (tel. 906/847-3321; www.iroquoishotel.com), a 100-year-old but thoroughly modernized inn. Doubles start at $160. Suites at the Lilac Tree Hotel, Main Street (tel. 866/847-6575; www.lilactree.com) include fridges and microwaves and start at $130.

For fine dining on the island, nothing surpasses the Grand Hotel's Salle à Manger (tel. 800/33-GRAND; www.grandhotel.com), known for its French-inspired entrees, decadent pecan ball dessert, and service fit for royalty. The hotel's Jockey Club and Woods restaurants offer casual meals -- pasta, chicken, and steaks -- at lower prices. The Carriage House, Main Street (tel. 906/847-3321; www.iroquoishotel.com), in the Hotel Iroquois, features local specialties such as broiled whitefish and pork tenderloin served with a chutney of Michigan apples and cherries. A nice family choice is Dockside Inn, near Star Line Ferry (tel. 906/847-3480), a casual restaurant serving local fish, chicken, ribs, wraps, and over 150 types of beer.

Getting There

The major route to Mackinac Island is I-75 from the south. From the lower peninsula, ferries depart from Mackinaw City; from the upper peninsula, ferries sail from St. Ignace. Shepler's Ferry (tel. 800/828-6157; www.sheplersferry.com), Arnold Transit Company (tel. 800/542-8528; www.arnoldline.com), and Star Line Ferry (tel. 800/638-9892; www.mackinacferry.com) all service the island from both cities, and charge $20 adults, $10 children 5 to 12, free for children under 5. Bike transport is $7. You can also travel by plane from St. Ignace on Great Lakes Air (tel. 906/643-7165).

Pictured Rocks National Seashore

On the north coast of Michigan's upper peninsula, rain, wind, and waves have sculpted 17 miles of multicolored sandstone cliffs into Pictured Rocks, one of the state's most scenic shores. The most spectacular cliffs extend from Munising to Grand Marais and soar to a height of 200 feet, varying from caves and arches to narrow columns and overlooks.

Highway 58 is a rough gravel road that runs parallel to the lakeshore between Munising on Route 28 and Grand Marais on Route 77. You'll find accommodations, restaurants, information, and camping supplies in both towns. For more information, contact Grand Marais Chamber of Commerce (tel. 906/494-2447; www.grandmaraismi.com) or the park (tel. 906/387-2607; www.nps.gov/piro).

There are many miles of hiking trails and roads, including the North Country Trail, that yield close-up views of the rocks. Many visitors prefer to see the shore on a 2-hour cruise. Boats dock at the Munising City Pier, Mich. 28 and Elm Avenue (tel. 906/387-2379; www.picturedrocks.com). Adults pay $29, children 6 to 12 $12, and children under 6 ride free.

In the summer, lakeshore pastimes include hiking, picnicking, and swimming (if you can brave Lake Superior's frigid waters). In the winter, visitors enjoy snowshoeing, snowmobiling, or cross-country skiing on 21 miles of trails.

Near Grand Marais, the cliffs ease into giant sand dunes, which lumberjacks used as chutes to send forested timber into the lake below. Inland, you'll find waterfalls, forests, abundant wildlife, and fish swarming in lakes, ponds, and streams. At the base of the cliffs, a sand beach stretches for 12 miles.

After a rigorous day in the outdoors, replenish your energy without depleting your funds at Sydney's, Mich. 28, Munising (tel. 906/387-4067). Grilled steaks or fresh Lake Superior fish are the specialties. Dine in or take out.

There are three drive-in campsites in the 40-mile Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore between Munising and Grand Marais. You can also hike into primitive campgrounds along the water. In Grand Marais, North Shore Lodge, Canal Street, 1 mile east of Mich. 77 (tel. 906/494-2361), offers basic, affordable lodging on a stretch of private beach, an indoor pool, and a kids' play area.

Getting There

To reach Pictured Rocks from the Mackinac Bridge (I-75), take U.S. 2 west immediately after the bridge, then Mich. 77 north to Grand Marais. For Munising, turn west on Mich. 28 at Seney.

Isle Royale National Park

It's tough to get to Isle Royale National Park (tel. 906/482-0984; www.nps.gov/isro), which is precisely its appeal. The remote, craggy islands are populated with hardwood forests, wildlife, lakes, and streams rather than lots of tourists and RVs. Cars are prohibited in this northern oasis, accessible only by boat and floatplane, 50 miles from Michigan's northwest coast and surrounded by Lake Superior's icy waters. The main island is the largest (45 miles wide*8 miles long) and most visited, but it is surrounded by 400 smaller islands. It's likely you'll have one all to yourself provided you can paddle there. And you can only do so mid-April through October; the park is closed to visitors the rest of the year.

A trip to Isle Royale takes careful planning. Ferries to the island return just a few hours after they dock; don't waste your time and money on the long voyage unless you plan to stay overnight. If you're traveling midsummer, it's probably wise to reserve space on a ferry in advance. The one-way, 2 1/2-hour cruise from Grand Portage, Minnesota (on Hwy. 61 near Ontario) on Wenonah (tel. 715/392-2100; www.grand-isle-royale.com) costs $39 adults, $22 children under 12. The 3-hour, one-way trip from Copper Harbor, Michigan (on U.S. 41, on the Keweenaw Peninsula) on The Isle Royale Queen (tel. 906/289-4437; www.isleroyale.com) costs $60 adults, $30 children under 12. And the 6-hour trip from Houghton, Michigan (on U.S. 41, on the Keweenaw Peninsula) on Ranger III (tel. 906/482-0984; www.nps.gov/isro) costs $52 adults, $24 children under 12. The Ranger III is the only ferry large enough to transport boats; fees vary according to boat size. From Houghton you can also catch a seaplane (tel. 877/359-4753; www.royaleairservice.com) for $250 per person, round-trip. Visitors also need to pay a user fee of $4 per day for every person age 12 and over.

You'll encounter Isle Royale's sole inhabitants -- 200 bird species, foxes, beavers, wolves, and about 700 moose -- along the park's 165 miles of foot trails. Greenstone Ridge Trail, the main artery, is strenuous, running east-west along the island -- a 4- or 5-day trek even for fit hikers. Easier routes include the treks along the rugged bluffs of Stoll Trail and along Tobin Harbor Trail to Suzy's Cave; and up 880 feet to Lookout Louise, a more difficult climb that rewards with unsurpassed views. Even inexperienced paddlers can manage a canoe trip across Hidden Lake, where a natural salt lick attracts the local moose population.

Rock Harbor Lodge, Rock Harbor (tel. 906/337-4993 summer, 270/773-2191 winter; www.isleroyaleresort.com; open late May to mid-Sept), provides lodging and meals to those who need more comfort than a tent. Doubles include half-day canoe rentals and begin at $170 per night without meals or $276 per night with three meals. The lodge's surprisingly good dining room is open to all, or you can bring your own food and rent a cabin (with kitchenette) beginning at $165 a night. There are no grocery stores on Isle Royale. Sightseeing cruises depart Rock Harbor for a variety of island destinations beginning at $30 adults, $14 children under 12.

The campgrounds near Rock Harbor have three-sided wooden shelters, but they fill up fast because they are near the island's entry point. Three Mile and Daisy Farm are within a day's hike of Rock Harbor, west along the southern shore. West Chickenbone is a popular site, a 2- to 3-day hike from Rock Harbor, along the Greenstone Ridge Trail. Note: All campgrounds in the park have maximum-stay limits, usually 3 days.

For more information, call Park Headquarters at tel. 906/482-0984. Ranger stations are at Windigo, Rock Harbor, Malone Bay, and Amygdaloid.