Halfway between the resort sophistication of Los Cabos and the frontier exuberance of Tijuana lies Baja's midsection, an area rich in history and culture. The indigenous cave paintings here are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the area was home to numerous Jesuit missions in the 1700s. These days, mid-Baja is known for its sea-kayaking, freediving, sportfishing, off-road racing, hiking, and simply as a place to take in breathtaking quantities of natural beauty.
Overlooked by many travelers (except avid sportfishermen and the off-road racers who pass through several times a year), Loreto is a rare gem that sparkles under the desert sky. The purple hues of the Giganta Mountains meet the indigo waters of the Sea of Cortez, providing a spectacular backdrop of natural contrasts for the historic town. Mulegé is, literally, an oasis in the Baja desert. The only freshwater river (Río Mulegé) in the peninsula flows through town. And the port town of Santa Rosalía, while a century or so past its prime, makes a worthy detour, with its pastel clapboard houses and unusual steel-and-stained-glass church, designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame).
Far enough away from the polished tourism gem of Los Cabos, the people's smiles are more sincere and you rarely hear the entrée to a timeshare sales pitch, "Hola, amiga. You wanna go fishing?" as you walk the streets of mid-Baja. Nonetheless, plans may be in the works to change that. North-of-the-border developers have snapped up Ensenada Blanca Bay, Loreto Bay, and more. Although mid-Baja is still a decade or more from being a hot spot for anyone besides adventurers, racing teams, and RV caravans, the plans are there, so if you want a glimpse of the Wild West, now is the time to visit Loreto, Mulegé, Santa Rosalía, and San Ignacio.
The region is also a popular jumping-off point for many whale-watching tours.
