Out in the hills northwest of Middletown, the serene Inn at Vaucluse Spring, 231 Vaucluse Spring Lane, Stephens City, VA 22655 (tel. 800/869-0525 or 540/869-0200;, offers a romantic retreat from life's pressures. It has 15 guest rooms in six buildings, including cottages and a Federal-style mansion house, the inn's centerpiece. A stay includes a three-course breakfast, and the inn is open for dinner on Friday and Saturday.

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