Hiking & Camping

Hiking Molokai's Pepeopae Trail -- Molokai's most awesome hike is the Pepeopae Trail, which takes you back a few million years. On the cloud-draped trail (actually a boardwalk across the bog), you'll see mosses, sedges, native violets, knee-high ancient ohia, and lichens that evolved in total isolation over eons. Eerie intermittent mists blowing in and out will give you an idea of this island at its creation.

The narrow boardwalk, built by volunteers, protects the bog and keeps you out of the primal ooze. Don't venture off it; you could damage this fragile environment or get lost. The 3-mile round-trip takes about 90 minutes to hike -- but first you have to drive about 20 miles from Kaunakakai, deep into the Molokai Forest Reserve on a four-wheel-drive road. Warning: Don't try this with a regular rental car. Plan a full day for this outing. Better yet, go on a guided nature hike with the Nature Conservancy of Hawaii, which guards this unusual ecosystem. For information, write to the Nature Conservancy at 1116 Smith St., Suite 201, Honolulu, HI 96817. No permit is required for this easy hike. Call ahead (tel. 808/537-4508 or 808/553-5236; www.nature.org) to check on the condition of the ungraded, four-wheel-drive, red-dirt road that leads to the trail head and to let people know that you'll be up there.

To get here, take Highway 460 west from Kaunakakai for 3 1/2 miles and turn right before the Maunawainui Bridge onto the unmarked Molokai Forest Reserve Road (sorry, there aren't any road signs). The pavement ends at the cemetery; continue on the dirt road. After about 2 to 2 1/2 miles, you'll see a sign telling you that you are now in the Molokai Forest Reserve. At the Waikolu Lookout and picnic area, which is just over 9 miles on the Molokai Forest Reserve Road, sign in at the box near the entrance. Continue on the road for another 5 miles to a fork in the road with the sign PUU KOLEKOLE pointing to the right side of the fork. Do not turn right; instead, continue straight at the fork, which leads to the clearly marked trail head. The drive will take about 45 minutes.

Hiking to Kalaupapa -- This hike to the site of Molokai's famous leper colony is like going down a switchback staircase with what seems like a million steps. You don't always see the breathtaking view because you're too busy watching your step. It's easier going down (surprise!) -- in about an hour, you'll go 2 1/2 miles, from 2,000 feet to sea level. The trip up sometimes takes twice as long. The trail head starts on the mauka (inland) side of Highway 470, just past the Mule Barn. Check in here at 7:30am, get a permit, and go before the mule train departs. You must be 16 or older (it's an old state law that kept kids out of the leper colony) and should be in good shape. Wear good hiking boots or sneakers.

Hiking the West End -- Molokai Outdoors Activities (tel. 877/553-4477 or 808/553-4477; www.molokai-outdoors.com) offers an all-day (6-8 hr.) Halawa Cultural hike full of historical information on East Molokai. The hike is rated intermediate to advanced, with a distance of 2.2 miles. It has two river crossings, and some rocky areas along the trails, with possible fallen trees after a storm. The cost is $188 per person and includes a picnic lunch.

Molokai Fish & Dive (tel. 808/553-5926; www.molokaifishanddive.com) offers a hike back into Halawa Valley for $75.

Camping

Bring your own camping equipment, as none is available for rent on the island.

At the Beach -- One of the best year-round places to camp on Molokai is Papohaku Beach Park, on the island's West End. This drive-up seaside site makes a great getaway. Facilities include restrooms, drinking water, outdoor showers, barbecue grills, and picnic tables. Groceries and gas are available in Maunaloa, 6 miles away. Kaluakoi Resort is a mile away. Get camping permits by contacting Maui County Parks Department, P.O. Box 526, Kaunakakai, HI 96748 (tel. 808/553-3204; www.co.maui.hi.us/parks/permits/parkspermits.htm). Camping is limited to 3 days, but if nobody else has applied, the time limit is waived. The cost is $3 a person per night.

In an Ironwood Forest -- At the end of Highway 470 is the 234-acre piney woods known as Palaau State Park, home to the Kalaupapa Lookout (the best vantage point for seeing the historic leper colony if you're not hiking or riding a mule in). It's airy and cool in the park's ironwood forest, where many love to camp at the designated state campground. Camping fees for Hawaii state parks are $5 per campsite per night, and you'll need a permit from the State Division of Parks (tel. 808/567-6618; www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/fees.html).