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If you insist on ultrafancy stores, you'll find them around the Hôtel de Paris and the casino, lining the streets leading to the Hôtel Hermitage, and across from the gardens at the Park Palace minimall. Streets including place du Casino, avenue des Beaux-Arts, and avenue Monte-Carlo are all within Monte Carlo's Carré d'Or (Golden Square), where you'll find top designers such as Dior, Céline, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Gucci, Chanel, and Prada.

However, you don't have to be Princess Caroline to shop in Monaco, especially now with FNAC (tel. 377-93-10-81-81) in the heart of town. A branch of the big French chain that sells CDs, tapes, and books, it's at the Métropole Shopping Center, 17 av. des Spélugues, next to the Hôtel Métropole and across from the casino gardens. The ornate Métropole Shopping Center also has a few specialty shops worth visiting. Check out Segraeti Five Senses (tel. 377-97-77-34-30; www.segraeti.com) for the coolest candles and its sister shop Segraeti Home Collection for designer kitchen utensils, or Manufacture de Monaco (tel. 377-93-50-64-63; www.mdpm.com) for glorious bone china and elegant tabletop items. If the prices make you want to take to your bed, two doors away is a branch of the chic French linen house Yves Delorme (tel. 377-93-50-08-70). Spar Royal Food (tel. 377-93-15-05-04) is a gourmet grocery store down a set of curving stairs hidden in the side entrance of the mall; here you can buy food from France, Lebanon, and the United States, or stock up for le pique-nique or for day trips. This shopping center is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm.

For real-people shopping, stroll rue Grimaldi, the principality's most commercial street, near the fruit, flower, and food market ; and boulevard des Moulins, closer to the casino, where you'll see glamorous boutiques. Rue Princesse-Caroline is a pedestrian thoroughfare with shops less forbiddingly chic than those along boulevard des Moulins, and it's loaded with bakeries, flower shops, and the closest thing you'll find to funkiness in Monaco. Also check out the Formule 1 shop, 15 rue Grimaldi (tel. 377-93-15-92-44), where everything from racing helmets to specialty key chains and T-shirts celebrates the roaring, high-octane racing machines. The best place to buy tea in Monaco is Prince's Tea at 35 bd. Princesse-Charlotte. The centuries-old Mariage Frères tea range is sold here, as well as a delectable selection of chocolates. You can also stop off here for a quick cup of tea between visiting sites. There's another outlet of this tea shop on avenue de la Costa. For a look at the heart and soul of the real Monaco, head to place d'Armes for the fruit, flower, and food market, which starts daily at 7:30am. The indoor and outdoor market has a fountain, cafes, and hand-painted vegetable tiles beneath your feet. The outdoor market packs up at noon, and some dealers at the indoor market stay open to 2pm. If you prefer bric-a-brac, a small but funky (especially for Monaco) flea market, Les Puces de Fontvieille, is open on Saturdays 9:30am to 5:30pm on the quai Jean-Charles Rey, immediately adjacent to Port de Fontvieille.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.