Monreale Duomo

Frommer's Review

Arabo-Norman art and architecture reached the pinnacle of its beauty in this cathedral, launched in 1174 by William II. Like the grand Alhambra in Granada, Spain, the Duomo hides behind a relatively drab facade, giving little indication of the riches inside. William issued orders "to spare no expense" as he set about to out razzle-dazzle the glory of Palermo's Cappella Palatina, which was the crowning architectural achievement of his grandfather Roger II. Today, the Monreale Duomo is the last and most stunning of the Norman churches of Sicily and is viewed as one of the architectural wonders of the Middle Ages.

The facade lies between two towers, one of which was never finished. Interlacing Arabic arches crown an 18th-century classical portico. If you stand on the Via dell'Arcivescovado, you can see where the original royal palace was absorbed by the Archbishop's Palace.

Bonanno Pisano, the sculptor and architect who created the Leaning Tower of Pisa, designed the cathedral's splendid bronze doors in 1185. He created 46 bas-reliefs of biblical scenes from both the Old and New Testaments. Beneath a portico from the 1500s, the lateral entrance is also graced with bronze doors, the 1179 work of Barisano da Trani, depicting saints, battles, animals, and scenes from the life of Christ. It is through this door that you enter the Duomo.

Once you step foot inside the golden interior, your eye won't know where to look first. The mosaics here evoke the Cappella Palatina in Palermo, but on a much grander scale. This splendiferous cycle of 12th- and 13th-century art occupies the aisles, the choir, the transepts, and the entire nave, vividly bringing to life scenes from the Old and New Testaments. Craftsmen from Venice were brought in to create some of these mosaics, which show an amazing attention to detail. Christ Pantocrator dominates the middle apse with majestic splendor; this is the most imposing of all such figures in any church on the island. Overall, there are more than 2,000 mosaics here -- even more than in St. Mark's in Venice. The mosaic cycle is the second largest on earth, topped only by Istanbul's Hagia Sofia.

In the north apse, Cappella del Crocifisso is gloriously baroqued to its teeth. The treasury shelters various precious objects and reliquaries, along with other ecclesiastical artifacts such as vestments, silverware, and goldsmithery dating back to the Middle Ages or the Renaissance.

The plan to make this a Norman royal pantheon was never carried out, although you can see the porphyry sarcophagus of William I (d. 1166) and William II (d. 1190) before the entryway into the Cappella di San Benedetto, with decorations dating from the 16th century.

Well worth the steep climb uphill from the cathedral is an ascent to the terraces. Once you reach the top, you're rewarded with a sweeping vista over the cloisters and another stunning view of the apses. From the more elevated terrace is a dramatic panorama to the sea and the bay of Conca d'Oro.

Descending from the terraces, you can visit the cloisters, which represent the flowering of Islamic architecture in Sicily. Devout Sicilians often refer to these cloisters as a "preview of Paradise." Pointed arches link 228 twin columns, each with a different design, many decorated with mosaics or reliefs. Each of the splendid Romanesque capitals is imaginatively conceived and carved. The artisan who depicted Adam and Eve hiding their genitalia in shame definitely had a sense of humor.

In the southwest corner is a minicloister, with one of the most delightful fountains in town. A dozen lionlike mouths gush water into the basin below.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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