La Cantina (da Caino)

Caino bustles out of the kitchen carrying a plate of shriveled mushrooms, joins a table of regulars under the wood-beamed ceiling, and launches into a discourse on the merits of various tartufi (truffles). He holds each one up, invoking its city of origin as he turns it like a gem in the light of the bright globe lamps. He excuses himself but returns with a wooden crate packed with regiments of dead sparrows -- his catch from that morning. Though the menu is long, this place really excels in game, fish, and the produce of the forests. So forgo standard Italian dishes for anything with cinghiale (wild boar), coniglio (rabbit), lepre (hare), uccelini (Caino's sparrows), or fresh pesce (fish). In warm weather, you can dine in the arbor-covered garden or on the open-windowed terrace.

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