What's New

Montana and Wyoming are known for their rugged beauty, terrific outdoor recreational opportunities, fascinating Wild West history, and seemingly endless wide-open spaces. These are sparsely populated states: Getting around means long hours in a car where visitors can glimpse a section of America that is little changed from the way it was when pioneers moved through in covered wagons. Change comes slowly here -- that's one of the things I like so much about these states -- but gradually I'm seeing more upscale hotels and resorts, sophisticated restaurants, and high-end real-estate developments. Following are some of the recent changes in Montana and Wyoming.

Glacier National Park -- A 2006 thunderstorm washed out a chunk of Going-to-the-Sun Road, which is in the midst of a multidecade restoration project. The washout was replaced by a temporary bridge, and the road was passable all summer long in 2007. However, expect to see some delays, late openings, and early closures in coming years. The park instituted a new shuttle system connecting Apgar with trail heads all over the park up to Logan Pass.

Missoula, The Flathead & the Northwest Corner -- Missoula -- Brennan's Wave, a white-water kayaking park near the Higgins Avenue Bridge (and named for late local legend Brennan Guth), opened to paddlers in 2006. An aesthetically pleasing expansion of the Missoula Art Museum (335 N. Pattee St.; tel. 406/728-0447) was completed in 2006.

Kalispell -- Longtime dining standout Cafe Max has a new name -- Capers (121 Main St.; tel. 406/755-7687) -- but the same proprietors in Doug and Vonnie Day, and the same great food, albeit a broader, less expensive menu. A new restaurant, North Bay Grille (138 1st Ave. W.), emerged as one of the city's best.

Whitefish -- The newly rebranded Whitefish Mountain Resort (tel. 800/858-5439), formerly Big Mountain Resort, not only has a new name but it also has a new day lodge, new lifts, and new restaurants. The Lodge at Whitefish Lake (1399 Wisconsin Ave.; tel. 800/735-8869) opened in late 2006 after several years of delays. The wait was worth it: It's the ritziest lakeside resort in Whitefish. Cafe Kandahar (3824 Big Mountain Rd.; tel. 406/862-6247) has emerged as a dining standout under the direction of Chef Andy Blanton. In town, the Duck Inn (1305 Columbia Ave.; tel. 800/344-2377) has seen a revamp under new ownership. The Red Caboose (101 Central Ave.; tel. 406/863-4563) is a great new family-friendly diner with a creative menu, open 24 hours a day.

Helena & Southwestern Montana -- Butte -- In neighboring Anaconda, the Copper King Express (300 W. Commercial Ave.; tel. 406/563-5458) started taking tourists on 2 1/2-hour round-trips in 2006. In Historic Uptown Butte, a new recommended pizzeria has opened, Pablo's Famous Italian Pies and Tap House (43 E. Park; tel. 406/723-2305), with a basic menu (mostly pizzas, calzones, and salads) and a good selection of microbrew on tap.

The Hi-Line & North-Central Missouri River Country -- Great Falls -- The River's Edge Trail (www.thetrail.org) along the Missouri River keeps on growing and now runs 30 miles out to the "Great Falls of the Missouri" under Ryan Dam. See chapter 8 for more information.

Bozeman, South-Central Montana & the Missouri Headwaters -- Bozeman -- The Gallatin Valley Land Trust's "Main Street to the Mountains" project (www.glvt.org/trails) has connected downtown Bozeman with a 50-mile trail network. The Museum of the Rockies (600 W. Kagy Blvd.; tel. 406/994-2251) underwent a makeover from 2005 to 2007 that made the facility one of the best dinosaur museums in the country, with cutting edge exhibits in the Hall of Horns and Teeth, the Mesozoic Media Center, and the Hall of Giants, populated with realistic life-size dinosaur models. The town's restaurants just keep getting better and better, with Over the Tapas (19 S. Willson Ave.; tel. 406/556-8282) the latest entry, a slick tapas bar with a good midpriced menu. For a great cheap lunch, head to the new La Tinga (12 E. Main St.; no phone) for terrific (and very spicy) Mexican fare.

The Gallatin Valley -- Under new ownership, Buck's T-4 (U.S. 191; tel. 800/822-4484) no longer flies the Best Western flag. The new owners plan a major renovation.

Billings & Eastern Montana -- The Billings downtown lodging scene has changed, with the old Sheraton Billings becoming Crowne Plaza Billings (27 N. 27th St.; 800/465-4329) in 2006 and giving the place a dazzling renovation. The other side of the story: The historic Northern Hotel is closed. There's a good new soup restaurant downtown, The Soup Place (106 N. Broadway; tel. 406/294-7687). Pompeys Pillar National Monument (tel. 406/875-2400; www.pompeyspillar.org) has an excellent new visitor center loaded with interactive multimedia.