Restaurants

There was a time not so long ago when eating out in Québec meant eating French food, and that was that.

Over the last 10 years, however, this has changed dramatically. That is, in large part, because of immigration: Montréalers now routinely indulge in Portuguese, Indian, Moroccan, Thai, Turkish, Mexican, and Japanese cuisines. An intermingling of styles, ingredients, and techniques was inevitable, and Montréal is now as cosmopolitan in its offerings as any city on the continent. Indeed, in some eyes, it has taken Canada's lead role in gastronomy; a meal here can equal the best offered anywhere in the world.

The Dining Scene -- Deciding where to dine among the many tempting choices can be bewildering. Keeping that in mind, we've highlighted the restaurants that are most honored, most special, or that offer the best value.

Restaurants -- colloquially called "restos" -- are often clustered together in certain neighborhoods. Many moderately priced bistros and cafes offer outstanding food, congenial surroundings, and amiable service at reasonable prices. Nearly all have menus posted outside, making it easy to do a little comparison shopping.

It's wise to make a reservation if you wish to dine at one of the city's top restaurants, especially on a weekend evening. Unlike in larger American and European cities, however, a day or two in advance is sufficient for most places on most days. A hotel concierge can make the reservation, though nearly all restaurant hosts will switch immediately into English when they sense that a caller doesn't speak French.

Except in a handful of luxury restaurants, dress codes are all but nonexistent. But Montréalers are a fashionable lot and manage to look smart even in casual clothes. Save the T-shirts and sneakers for another city.

Always look for table d'hôte meals. Less common in the U.S. but ubiquitous here, they are fixed-price menus with three or four courses, and usually cost just a little more than the price of a single à la carte main course. Restaurants at all price ranges offer them, and they represent the best value around. If you want to try many of the top restaurants, schedule some for noon-time meals if they offer table d'hôte menus at lunch, when the deal becomes even better.

Remember that for the Québécois, dîner (dinner) is lunch, and souper (supper) is dinner. An entrée is an appetizer, and a plat principal is a main course.

Insider websites featuring reviews and observations about the Montréal dining scene include www.midnightpoutine.ca/food and www.endlessbanquet.blogspot.com. Restaurant critic Lesley Chesterman's really solid reviews are online at www.montrealgazette.com.

Prices -- The restaurants recommended here are categorized by neighborhood and then by the cost of the main courses. Prices listed are for dinner unless otherwise indicated (lunch prices are usually lower) and do not include the cost of wine, tip, or the 5% federal tax and 7.5% provincial tax that are tacked on the restaurant bill. In all, count on taxes and tip to add another 30% to the bill.

Parking -- Because parking space is at a premium in most restaurant districts, it's easiest to take the Métro or a taxi. If you're driving, find out whether valet parking is available.

Smoking -- Québec has long had a smoking culture, but smoking in bars and restaurants has been banned since 2006.

Tipping -- Montréalers consider 15% of the check (before taxes) to be a fair tip, increased only for exceptional food and service.

Special Moment: Finding a Warm Corner After a Snowstorm

Lots of people save their vacation time for summer to come to Montréal when it's flush with outdoor music festivals, sidewalk cafes, sunny-day street fairs, and easy biking and strolling.

But winter offers its own pleasures, especially if you're ensconced in the city after a big snowfall hits. In the early morning after such weather, Vieux-Montréal transforms into a wonderland blanketed in pure, white snow, still and quiet. Against the blank palette, the grey and black architecture of the 18th-century buildings stands out in high relief.

Compared to when the city is offering up all sorts of sensory experiences, it becomes easier with sound and color stripped away to try to imagine what life might have been like in the settlement's earliest days.

Cluny ArtBar, on the far western end of Vieux-Montréal, is an excellent destination for a day like this. Classical music soars through the raw foundry space, and hot, frothy cappuccinos comfort you under a massive 1.2m (4-ft.) candelabra festooned with teeny Hindu gods and tea candles. Everything becomes new and old at the same time, cocooned by the awesome powers of Mother Nature.