In One Day

This itinerary outlines a carefully paced exploration of this cosmopolitan city with ample time for random exploring, shopping, or simply lingering in sidewalk cafés. While many suggestions assume you are traveling in warm weather, there are periodic suggestions for the winter months. If you're staying only 1 night, do book a room in one of the new boutique hotels in Vieux-Montréal, the old quarter beside the port on the St. Lawrence River. Visitors find themselves drawn again and again to the plazas and narrow cobblestone streets of this 18th- and 19th-century neighborhood, so you might as well be based there. Start: Vieux-Montréal.

1. Place d'Armes

Begin the day in the heart of Vieux-Montréal, at the place where the French settlers fought a bloody but decisive battle with the Iroquois in 1653. At the southeast corner of the plaza is the oldest building in the city, the Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice, erected by Sulpician priests who arrived in 1657. Next to it is the Basilique Notre-Dame, an 1824 church with a stunning interior of intricately gilded rare woods. Its acoustics are so clear that the late, famed opera star Luciano Pavarotti sung there several times. If it's still early, pick up "Walking Tour 1," which will take you past every historic structure in Vieux-Montréal.

2. Pointe-à-Callière

From the Basilique Notre-Dame, walk down the slope to the riverside edge of the district and Pointe-à-Callière, the Museum of Archaeology and History. After viewing the multimedia show above the ruins of the ancient city, descend below the streets to discover remnants of Amerindian camps and early French settlements unearthed and displayed where they were found.

3. Take a Break -- Olive et Gourmando

A couple of cobblestone blocks away is Olive et Gourmando. It started out as a bakery, added prepared foods, and evolved into a full-service, French-feeling café. Eat in, or put together an appetizing picnic lunch to carry to the nearby park of the Vieux-Port. 351 rue St-Paul ouest (tel. 514/350-1083).

4. Musée McCord

After lunch, take the Métro to the Peel station and walk to the Musée McCord, opposite the campus of English-language McGill University. The somewhat eccentric collections of Canadian historical objects are the gifts of 19th-century benefactors -- a kind of cataloged provisional attic -- including objects gathered from Québec's Native peoples.

5. Musée des Beaux-Arts

This is the city's most important fine-arts museum. The original building opened in 1912, and was augmented by the addition of a modern annex across the street in 1991. The ever-expanding permanent collection includes painting and sculpture from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, supplemented by displays from Oceania and Africa. An excellent art and gift shop is attached.

6. Rue Crescent

By now, you deserve a stroll and a sit-down, with a little shopping and people-watching. Walk south on rue Crescent. At first, it's lined with boutiques both hip and chic; soon it merges into downtown's primary nightlife district. By 5pm on a Thursday, at least when it's warm enough not to see your breath, the pedestrian traffic thickens and grows ever more intriguing.

7. Take a Break -- Sir Winston Churchill Pub

Grab a sidewalk seat at the Sir Winston Churchill Pub. It's been an epicenter of the rue Crescent scene for ages, filled with chatty 20- and 30-somethings passing the time or seeking companionship for the coming weekend. The hamburgers look better than they are, so nurse a pint or two of cold beer instead while taking in the passing parade. 1459 rue Crescent near rue Ste-Catherine (tel. 514/288-3814).

When it's time for dinner, there are several worthy restaurants on this and adjacent streets.