In Two Days

With the absolute essentials of historic Old Montréal and downtown Anglophone (English-speaking) cultural institutions under your belt ("In One Day" itinerary), prepare to take a journey deep into French Montréal. When the Olympics were awarded to Montréal for 1976, municipal authorities erected some principal venues in the eastern, overwhelmingly Francophone precincts of the city, which is where we start. Start: Take the Métro to the Viau station (it's at some distance, and a taxi would be expensive).

1. Stade Olympique

The controversial Olympic Stadium was long scorned as the "Big Owe" and then "Big Woe" due to cost overruns that provoked elevated taxes. Its fabric roof was meant to be retractable, but never did work to anyone's satisfaction. Nevertheless, it now houses a natatorium with five pools open to the public and has an inclined tower over 175m (574 ft.) high with a funicular that scoots to the observation level at the top in seconds. The vista afforded reaches as far as 56km (35 miles) past the city and into the mountains beyond.

A shuttle van can carry you from the Stade Olympique to the Jardin Botanique (Botanical Garden).

2. Jardin Botanique

The garden boasts 75 hectares (185 acres) of plants and flowers in dozens of specialized sections, including those sponsored by China and Japan. Ten large greenhouses assure that there are things to see all year, although May through September are the highlight months. A small train makes regular runs through the gardens. Plan to spend at least an hour or two.

3. Insectarium

Kids love the collection of more than 3,000 mounted and live bugs, beetles, spiders, and other sinister critters gathered in the two-story building on the grounds of the Jardin Botanique. Adults are more likely to enjoy the summer displays of gorgeous specimens in the adjacent Butterfly House.

Take the shuttle back to the Olympic Stadium and walk to the adjacent Biodôme.

4. Take a Break -- Biodôme cafeteria

You might want to eat before you take on the Biodôme (below), which can easily occupy another hour or so, especially if you have youngsters in tow. The in-house cafeteria and casual restaurant won't soon win any gastronomic awards, but they're at least serviceable, and there's also an adjoining game room for kids, called Naturalia. 4777 av. Pierre-de-Coubertin (next to Olympic Stadium; tel. 514/868-3000).

5. Biodôme de Montréal

Originally a velodrome (cycling track) built for the 1976 Olympics, this unique facility's four fascinating sections replicate four ecosystems, complete with tropical trees and animals, including golden lion tamarin monkeys that swing on branches only an arm's length away.

Take the Métro to Square Victoria or Place d'Armes.

6. St-Denis & St-Laurent

After all this, it might well be time to get back to your hotel for a recuperative lie-down. If you're ready to continue, take the path of generations of immigrants and walk from near the river in Vieux-Montréal due north on boulevard St-Laurent (French for Saint Lawrence). St-Laurent passes through the expanding Quartier Chinois (Chinatown), past the western edge of the Gay Village and the bohemian Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter), and into the lower precincts of the Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood. Turn right along the pedestrian rue Prince Arthur, and reach rue St-Denis. Turn north (left). There are no must-see monuments or sights along this route, so surrender to the color and vitality of the heart of French Montréal.

7. Take a Break -- Fonduementale

If it's time for dinner, chapter 6 recommends at least a dozen likely restaurants along this route. But if you're just looking for a snack, it's hard to beat the longtime favorite, Fonduementale. Fondues and the related Swiss specialty raclette come in many guises, from snacks to full meals. There is a terrace in front and a garden in back. 4325 rue St-Denis (tel. 514/499-1446).

You're in the right neighborhood if you want to follow dinner with a bit of bar- or club-hopping. The Main, as boulevard St-Laurent is known, is lined with both amiable and hard-driving places to bend an elbow and listen to music. The best stretch is from around avenue du Mont-Royal on the north to rue Sherbrooke on the south.