La Chronique

Montréal's top chefs have been recommending this modest-looking restaurant near Outremont for several years. It was feared that the resulting buzz might spoil the place, but it has only improved, unless you count the hefty increase in prices. You'll discover how remarkable traditional recipes can be in the hands of a master. Presentations are so impeccable that you hate to disturb them, and flavors are so eye-rolling that you want to scrape up every last smear of food. Even diners leery of organ meats will find the veal sweetbreads a silky revelation. The menu features Mediterranean and Southwestern touches, as well as expensive ingredients like foie gras and caviar. A small but judicious selection of cheeses can precede or replace the tantalizing desserts, which look as if they might take flight.

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