Brunoise

Frommer's Review

The kitchen half of this two-man partnership takes full advantage of his ingredients. His mussel-and-potato bourride (similar to bouillabaisse) starter, for instance, gives off a stronger aroma of saffron than from cooks who simply use it as coloring; vegetables are crunchy, the broth aromatic. Even the fairly short list of mains promotes indecision. The choices reveal many influences, as broad as Asian and Mediterranean and as focused as Catalan. In his zeal to innovate, the chef sometimes commits the sin of too many ingredients pushed and pulled into shape for presentation; a square of halibut filet resting on spinach and haricots vert, an artichoke purée to one side, with a tumble of olives and cherry tomatoes over all was one example. But choose the simpler preparations and you can expect sublime satisfaction. One other caveat: Their prices rank among the highest in town, and only prix-fixe menus are now offered. The owners expanded in 2007 with La Brasserie Brunoise next to the Bell Centre at 1012 rue de la Montagne, where most mains are under C$20 (US$17/£8.60).

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