BU

Frommer's Review

Not just another award-winning designer bar, this place strikes an exquisite balance between wine and food. The eats in question are antipasti, which the manager stoutly contends are far superior to the currently fashionable variations on the tapas tradition ("one bite, gone," as he puts it). The Assiette BU is a satisfying assortment of meats, cheese, and grilled vegetables, and some people come just for BU's silky rendition of vitello tonnato -- veal and crème of tuna. There are three hot dishes offered nightly, but the purpose of all the food is to complement, not do battle with, the wines. The long card of 500 selections eschews the same old bottlings, and even those who regard themselves as connoisseurs make delightful discoveries, guided by the knowledgeable staff. There are about 25 wines by the glass. The crowd gets younger as the night rolls on, and because the bar stays open late, off-duty chefs are often in the mix.

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