Frommer's Review
This little beef-and-fish house opened in 2005 far from the brightest lights of downtown by folks who used to run those glamorous resto-clubs. Here, where the warehouses haven't all turned into high-end lofts yet, two other restaurants were added in 2007 and 2008 directly adjacent: Liverpool House (at no. 2501), an Italian gastropub, and McKiernan (no. 2485), a luncheonette and wine bar. Chef and restaurateur David McMillan spends his nights floating between the three venues; he's the big guy in the shorts and arm-sleeve tattoos (he's a wine connoisseur, too, so seek his advice regarding a claret to go with the beef). Atmosphere is moneyed roadhouse; Joe Beef is in a narrow storefront that keeps diners elbow to elbow, with the restaurant's menu and wine list written on a big blackboard occupying one wall. Customary starters are oysters, including many rarely seen, such as Caraquets, Cortez Islands, and Marina Gems. The menu might include salade Joe Beef, a tangy tangle of green beans, boiled potatoes, pickled beets, jicama, duck breast, and a poached egg. Main courses can include trout, suckling pig, cabbage stuffed with veal cheeks, and, of course, steak au poivre. With the Atwater Market just steps away, food is fresh and seasonal.
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