Accommodations are extremely limited -- so limited, in fact, that it leaves us wondering what lodgers would do in the event of a sudden and unexpected influx of new business. The island's finest accommodations are within the Tropical Mansions Suites (tel. 664/491-8767; fax 664/491-8275; www.tropicalmansion.com), in the hamlet of Sweeney's and with its own outdoor pool and an airy, somewhat sterile and decent-looking restaurant (the Tropical Mansion Restaurant, daily from 7:30am-9:30pm). Built in 1999 as a kind of 18-unit neo-Palladian motel, it's identified by a soaring front portico, a modern no-nonsense kind of efficiency, and by a series of breezeways and arcades that surround an ornamental pool. A double room with breakfast costs US$119 to US$150 (£60-£75) per night. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. In the restaurant, lunch main courses cost from US$10 to US$15 (£5-£7.50) each, and dinner main courses cost from US$20 to US$30 (£10-£15) each. Creole-style fried fish, especially snapper, is a specialty.
Grand View Bed & Breakfast, Baker Hill (tel. 664/491-2284; fax 664/491-6876), is for those who like a homelike place to stay with one of the island's best hosts, Theresa Silcott, who will also prepare you a great dinner if you make a reservation. Overlooking Little Bay, the B&B has six units (including three suites), which are simple but well maintained and comfortable. In lieu of air-conditioning, you get fresh mountain air. Each of these spacious rooms come with TV and phone. Double rooms with private bath cost EC$243 (US$90/£45), with suites going for EC$257 (US$95/£48).
Renting a House on Montserrat -- Montserrat real estate, thanks to the recent volcanic explosions, has disappointed more real estate investors than virtually any other island in the Caribbean. But what that means for you is now you can select from a pool of affordable buildings (at least 100) of all sizes, shapes, and degrees of comfort and maintenance that can be rented for anywhere from a few days to a season or more. We firmly believe that if you're tempted to rent a house for a Caribbean holiday, you should stay for the first time on island within a conventional hotel, and then -- for a second- or third-time holiday -- consider renting from a reputable agent. Two of the best agencies are Trade Winds Real Estate, P.O. Box 365, Olveston (tel. 664/491-2004; fax 664/491-6229; www.tradewindsmontserrat.com); and Montserrat Enterprises, Ltd., P.O. Box 58, Old Towne (tel. 664/491-2431; fax 664/491-4660; www.montserratenterprises.com).