Planning a Trip

Getting There & Departing

By Plane -- Continental (tel. 800/231-0856 in the U.S., or 01-800/900-5000 in Mexico; www.continental.com) has direct flights from Houston. Mexicana (tel. 800/531-7921 in the U.S., or 443/324-3808; www.mexicana.com) has flights to and from several California destinations and Chicago. Several domestic carriers connect Morelia to other cities in Mexico.

Morelia's airport is Aeropuerto Francisco J. Mújica, a 45-minute drive from the city center on Km 27 of the Carretera Morelia-Zinapécuaro. Taxis meet each flight. Budget has a car-rental office there (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S. and Canada, or 443/313-3399).

By Car -- The slow route from either Mexico City or Guadalajara is Highway 15 -- a winding and narrow road with beautiful vistas, which can be appreciated at leisure because you inevitably get stuck behind an old truck that can barely climb the mountains as it makes its way through a series of blind curves. The fast way is the modern toll highway that connects Mexico City and Guadalajara. Exit when the road crosses Highway 43. It's clearly marked. To Morelia from either city is about 4 hours and $20 (£10). From Guanajuato (2 1/2 hr.), take this same Highway 43. From Morelia to Pátzcuaro (1 hr.), there is Highway 120, a four-lane road. The new toll road from the Ixtapa beach resort connects to this highway. From Ixtapa to Morelia now takes about 4 hours and $15 (£7.50).

By Bus -- Buses to Morelia from Mexico City depart from the Observatorio station. ETN, Pegasso, Primera Plus/Servicios Coordinados, and Autovías all go to Morelia. Make sure to request a directo or via autopista. The trip takes 4 hours, and there are usually three or four departures every hour. ETN offers the best service. You will arrive at the new Central Camionera in the far northwest side of town, near the soccer stadium. First-class and deluxe bus service to and from Morelia use Terminal A, and regional service to and from Pátzcuaro uses Terminal B. Service from Guadalajara is also frequent. From Guanajuato, your best bet is Primera Plus and Servicios Coordinados, usually changing buses in Irapuato. From Ixtapa, Parhikuni has six buses per day.

In downtown Morelia several travel agencies sell bus tickets. At the corner of 20 de Noviembre and Obregón is one called GAP (tel. 443/317-2828), and it sells tickets for ETN and Primera Plus.

Visitor Information

The city government, in association with local guides, has a tourist information kiosk on the Plaza de Armas (main square). It's open from 9am until 8pm Monday to Saturday. The city operates a website (www.visitmorelia.com) and prints a free quarterly magazine with a calendar of events (La Guía de Morelia), which is handy.

City Layout

The heart of the city is the cathedral, with the Plaza de Armas on its left (west side) and the Plaza Melchor Ocampo on its right (east side). The wide street passing in front of the cathedral is Avenida Madero, the city's main street. It meets the lovely colonial aqueduct .8km (a half-mile) east of the cathedral. This segment of Madero, along with several blocks to either side, is the old part of town. From the fountain, the aqueduct heads southeast toward what has become the fashionable part of town.

Getting Around

Taxis are a bargain here. Still, you should settle the fare before you enter the cab.