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15km (9 1/4 miles) NE of Reykjavík.

This town hasn't been swallowed up by the overflowing capital, but its day may soon come. The outskirts of town yield to beautiful pastureland, where you'll find Mosfellsbær's main attraction: the former home of Halldór Laxness, Iceland's greatest modern writer.

The tourist office (tel. 566-6822; www.mosfellsbaer.is) is at the library in the Kjarni shopping center (Tþverholt 2).