The most awe-inspiring and magnificent of Koyasan's many structures and temples, Okunoin contains the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi. The most dramatic way to approach Okunoin is from the Ichinohashi bus stop, where a pathway leads 1.6km (1 mile) to the mausoleum. Swathed in a respectful darkness of huge cypress trees forming a canopy overhead are monument after monument, tomb after tomb -- approximately 200,000 of them, all belonging to faithful followers from past centuries.
I don't know whether being here will affect you the same way, but I was awestruck by the sheer density of tombstones, the iridescent green moss, the shafts of light streaking through the treetops, the stone lanterns, and the gnarled bark of the old cypress trees. Together, they present a dramatic picture representing a thousand years of Japanese Buddhist history. If you're lucky, you won't meet many people along this pathway. Tour buses fortunately park at a newer entrance to the mausoleum at the bus stop called Okunoin-mae. I absolutely forbid you to take this newer and shorter route; its crowds lessen the impact of this place considerably. Rather, make sure you take the path farthest to the left, which begins near the Ichinohashi stop. Much less traveled, it's also much more impressive and is one of the main reasons for coming to Koyasan in the first place. And be sure to return to the mausoleum at night -- the stone lanterns (now lit electrically) create a mysterious and powerful effect.
At the end of the pathway, about a 30-minute walk away is the Lantern Hall, or Torodo, which houses about 21,000 lanterns, donated by prime ministers, emperors, and others. If you'd like to buy a lantern to dedicate to someone, it costs ¥500,000 to ¥1,000,000 ($4,166-$8,333). Two sacred fires, which reportedly have been burning since the 11th century, are kept safely inside. The mausoleum itself is behind the Lantern Hall. Buy a white candle, light it, and wish for anything you want. Then sit back and watch respectfully as Buddhists come to chant and pay respects to one of Japan's greatest Buddhist leaders.
Kongobuji Temple, located near the main Koyasan Tourist Association office in the center of town (tel. 0736/56-2011; open daily 8:30am-4:30pm), is the central monastery headquarters of the Shingon sect in Japan. Although Kongobuji was originally built in the 16th century by Toyotomi Hideyoshi to commemorate his mother's death, the present building is 150 years old, reconstructed following a fire. The most important thing to see, however, is the temple's magnificent rock garden, reputedly the largest in Japan and said to represent a pair of dragons in a sea of clouds. If it's raining, consider yourself lucky -- the wetness adds sheen and color to the rocks. Admission is ¥500 ($4.15) for adults, ¥200 ($1.65) for children.
Another important site is the Danjyo-Garan Complex (tel. 0736/56-3215; open daily 8:30am-4:30pm), the first buildings constructed on Koyasan and still considered the center of religious life in the community. It's an impressive sight with a huge main hall (kondo); a large vermilion-colored pagoda (daito), which many consider to be Koyasan's most magnificent structure and which is very much worth entering (¥200/$1.65); and the oldest building on Mount Koya, the Fudodo, which was built in 1197. Next to the complex is the [144] Reihokan Museum (tel. 0736/56-2029; open daily 8:30am-4:30pm), displaying such treasures of Koyasan as wooden Buddha sculptures, scrolls, art, and implements spread through two buildings. Unfortunately, there are no English explanations, so come here only if you have 30 minutes to spare. Admission is ¥600 ($5) for adults, ¥350 ($2.90) for students, and ¥250 ($2.10) for children.
