Deccan Odyssey -- Western India's version of the famous Palace on Wheels train is a lavish 21-car luxury train called the Deccan Odyssey, which traverses Maharashtra's stunning coast. The 7-day journey begins in Mumbai and wanders down the coast to Goa via gorgeous beaches untouched by commercialization. It then stops in the historic city of Pune before moving on to Aurangabad (where you can visit the Ajanta and Ellora caves), and finally returns to Mumbai. The journey involves traveling by night and sightseeing during the day. Onboard facilities are royal and luxurious (provided by the Taj group of hotels), and you get outstanding food, the services of a personal valet, a gym, an Ayurvedic health spa, and more (Deccan Odyssey: in the U.S. call tel. 888/INDIA-99; in the U.K. call toll-free 0125/8580-600; in India call 011/2332-5939 or 011/2335-3155; www.thedeccanodyssey.com, www.thepalaceonwheels.com, or www.deccan-odyssey-india.com; $2,450/£1,237 for the 7-day tour, all-inclusive; discounts sometimes available).
Aurangabad, Ellora & Ajanta -- The ancient cave temples at Ellora and Ajanta are among the finest historical sites India has to offer, and a detour to this far-flung region of Maharashtra to view these World Heritage Sites is well worth the effort. You can cover both Ellora and Ajanta comfortably in 2 days, but for those who are truly pressed for time, it is possible to see both sets of caves in a single (long, tiring) day. To do this, you'll need a packed lunch from your hotel, and plenty of bottled water. Set out for Ajanta at about 7am, reaching the ticket office as it opens (recommended for the tranquillity of the experience, even if you're not trying to cover both in a day). Spend no more than 3 hours exploring Ajanta, before heading for Ellora; your driver should be aware of the detour along the Ajanta-Aurangabad road that will get you there much faster. The caves at Ellora are spread out, so don't drag your heels, and be sure not to miss the ultimate jaw-dropper, known as "Cave 16": the Kailashnath temple complex is more carved mountain than cave. The world's largest monolithic structure, it is twice the size of the Parthenon. Note that Ajanta is closed on Monday and Ellora on Tuesday.
Hilly Detour
International guidebooks hardly ever mention them, so tourists seldom venture there, but its residents know well that you can escape to the inimitable Sahyadri hills outside Mumbai in less than 2 hours. The Sahyadris, or Western ghats, rather different from the Himalayas, are low, rugged peaks dotted with forts, peaks, pinnacles, and superb hiking and trekking opportunities in a beautiful natural environment. If you like to walk in the hills, have 2 days (or even 1) to spare, and want an experience that most travelers don't get, we suggest a trip into the Western ghats around Mumbai. A personal favorite is Matheran, possibly Asia's most unique hill station -- it's completely vehicle-free. You walk in, ride a horse in, or get jostled across its dirt roads in a hand-pulled rickshaw from the entry point of Dasturi Naka. Alternatively, you can take the slow, 2-hour light railway (toy train) journey that has been running the meandering 20km (12 1/2-mile) route from Neral in the plains to Matheran on top of the hill since 1907.
It's not just nature enthusiasts, bird-watchers, climbers, and hikers who comb these hills; even the laidback visitor loves a weekend or longer here. It's the kind of place that transports you back in time. Built by the British as a cool alternative to Bombay in the summer, the thickly forested hilltop is ideal for leisurely walks and early-morning horseback riding through the rain forests. Paths lead to stunning views of the surrounding hills and valleys, and the old, crumbling British-era bungalows reflect a lifestyle and architecture not found elsewhere. There was a time not too long ago when no one ventured outdoors after 7pm because panthers roamed this area. No more. There is still plenty of wildlife, however: deer, pangolins (anteaters), porcupine, giant red squirrel, and the ubiquitous monkeys (rhesus and langur), now bold and aggressive at times, and unfortunately a local nuisance.
The best place to stay (and you should find time to overnight) is The Verandah in the Forest (more popularly called Barr House), a Neemrana Hotels property and restored colonial bungalow furnished with antique furniture and just 11 rooms (tel. (Mumbai) 022/011-2435-6145; www.neemranahotels.com; sales@neemranahotels.com; ask for rooms Petit, Sassoon, or Chenoy; Rs 2,000-4,000/$49-$98/£25-£50). To get there hire a car from Mumbai to drop you off at Dasturi Naka (via Neral), from where you have to walk or ride (horse or rickshaw). Ask the hotel to get someone to meet you at Dasturi Naka or take a local train to Neral, switch to the toy train into Matheran, then walk to Barr House. For the more adventurous there are at least six different hiking routes from the plains into Matheran.
If you're looking for an expert to guide you on a day-long hike or longer trek anywhere in the Sahyadri hills or just for a trip to and around Matheran, Andre Morris knows these hills like the back of his hand. He'll also give you a plenty of information on the flora, fauna, and history of the area and can organize overnight camping trips (tel. 98-2019-5115 or 022/2631-5019; outboundadventure@gmail.com; Rs 6,000/$146/£74 per couple per day for his guide services).
