Getting Around

Mumbai is a city on the go -- but don't expect to get anywhere fast, because traffic is lousy at the best of times. Already, close to a million vehicles crowd the streets, and each week another 1,400 scooters and cars join the congestion caused by battered black-and-yellow taxis, Marutis, Indicas, expensive sedans and SUVs, copies of leftover red double-decker Routemaster buses, and the occasional cow. You will certainly need to take a taxi to get around (or, if you're arriving from the airport, arrange a transfer with your hotel). If you're overnighting in the Colaba-Fort area, you will, for the most part, be able to get around on foot.

By Taxi -- Metered taxis (in which you don't bargain but pay a rate dependent on mileage predetermined by a structured fare card) are available everywhere (flag them down when you see the meter flag up), but note that you'll be riding in rather battered Fiats from the 1960s. That said, Mumbai is one of the few places in India where using the meter is the norm -- in fact, no local would go anywhere without a taxi driver using his meter. Typically, the taxi meters in Mumbai are mounted on the vehicle hoods, and taxi drivers are required to carry a conversion chart that tells passengers how much they owe, based on the original fare displayed on the ludicrously old-fashioned meters. Do not start the journey before checking to see if the driver is carrying the correct chart; these are sometimes tampered with, so vital information is missing -- for example, the part of the chart informing you that the rates quoted are for nighttime travel, which are higher. If you're in any doubt, ask a policeman or your hotel doorman to decipher the fare for you (which is Rs 13/30¢/15p for the first 1.6km and Rs 8.50/20¢/10p for each subsequent kilometer), but in essence you can calculate how much you have to pay by multiplying what's on the meter by approximately Rs 13 (30¢/15p); add on 25% if you are traveling between midnight and 5am, and Rs 5 to Rs 7 (10¢-15¢/10p) per piece of sizable luggage. Nothing more.

You will also see blue-and-white Indica taxis (called Cool Cabs) with digital meters plying the streets. These can be flagged down in the same way as the yellow tops.

Mumbai now has two new taxi services. Look for green Esteem cars with large advertising banners and a white light on top (available) or red (engaged). These new taxis are called Meru Cabs and are equipped with GPS, digital tamper-proof meters and printers (for a receipt), radio, and A/C, and have better-trained drivers. They're a definite step up from the beaten-up black-and-yellow taxis so characteristic of Mumbai. The downside is that even though you can hail one curbside, you rarely see a vacant Meru cab, and the phone service (tel. 022/4422 4422; open 24/7) requires at least 4 hours' advance notice. If you want to book one several days in advance you can do so on their website (www.merucabs.com) and receive an e-mail confirmation. Gold Cabs (tel. 022/3244 3333) also runs a smaller fleet of yellow cabs in various car models; again you'll have to book a few hours ahead. Fares for both are higher than regular cabs (Rs 15/35¢/20p for first kilometer and Rs 13/30¢/15p for each subsequent kilometer), and the meter starts only after you sit in the cab (unless you call and keep it waiting more than 10 min.). Note: Both services are in their infancy and are not yet 100% efficient.

If you're looking for a vehicle for the day, you can strike a deal with a private taxi driver directly, but here you should negotiate the deal upfront -- you should pay around Rs 700 to Rs 800 ($17-$20/£9-£10), plus a tip, for an 8-hour (or 80km/50-mile) stint. Note that it's worth shelling out extra for an air-conditioned cab -- you're likely to spend long stretches waiting in traffic jams at overcrowded intersections. To rent an air-conditioned car and an English-speaking driver privately (which will cost a bit more but may remove the hassle of haggling), the following operators are recommended: Cool Cabs (Worli tel. 022/2492-7006; or at Andheri 022/2822-7006, or 022/2824-6216); Car Hirers (1403 Arcadia, Nariman Point; tel. 022/2283-4689; www.carhirers.com); Euro Cars (Suburban Service Station, 261 S.V. Rd., Bandra W.; tel. 022/2655-2424; www.eurocars-india.com); and Ketan Travels Pvt. Ltd. (R.T. Building, P.M. Rd., Vile Parle E.; tel. 022/2614-0554; www.ketancars.com). Hertz (tel. 022/6570-2126; opsmum@carzonrent.com) offers chauffeur-driven cars throughout the subcontinent.

Hiring a taxi through your hotel can get very pricey, but the fleet of cars maintained by some of the upmarket hotels is unlikely to be matched in quality by anyone in the city, and it may be convenient to have taxi charges added to your hotel bill. Do, however, remember to tip your driver directly.

By Train -- Train travel in the city is strictly for the adventurous, but then again, a ride on a train in the afternoon (or on Sun) gives you the opportunity to see how the other half lives, as the tracks wend their ways through some of the city's most squalid slums. A first-class return ticket from Victoria Terminus to the suburb of Thane costs about Rs 210 ($5/£3). Travel only during off-peak (noon-3pm is best) times and leave luggage and valuables in your hotel room.

Organized Tours & Trips

You will be offered tours of various descriptions by at least half the people you meet on the streets of Mumbai; everyone from your taxi driver to the man who asks you for the time will have a contact in the tourism industry who'll be more than happy to take you sightseeing. Use your discretion, watch your wallet, and remember that Mumbai's traffic makes it impossible to see everything in 1 day.

To arrange a legitimate tour of the city, set it up through your hotel, which should have access to the best guides (meaning those with the best English and best knowledge). Or contact Maharashtra Tourist Development Corporation (Madame Cama Rd., opposite L.I.C. Building; tel. 022/2202-6713 or -7762; Mon-Sat 9:30am-5:30pm). The department has recently converted a double-decker bus into an open-deck bus offering a 1-hour city tour (Sat-Sun evenings only) that starts from the Gateway of India and languidly makes its way past Mumbai's historic attractions. Get a seat on the top deck of the bus, called Nilambari, and experience Mumbai from a different angle (tickets at MTDC counter at Gateway; tel. 022/2284-1877; Rs 90/$2/£1 top deck, Rs 40/$1/50p lower deck). For more general tourist information, contact the Government of India Tourist Office (123 Maharishi Karve Rd., Churchgate; tel. 022/2203-3144; Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm and Sat 8:30am-2pm). Bear in mind that there's little point in seeing Mumbai only from the back seat of a chauffeur-driven taxi; leave time to explore the city on foot. If you're keen on architecture, a group of young architects conducts Bombay Heritage Walks on Sunday (tel. 022/2369-0992; www.bombayheritagewalks.com; mid-Sept to May 5 6:30pm, special monsoon walks June-Sept; by prior arrangement only; Rs 100/$2/£1 and up) -- these tours take in various fascinating parts of the city.

Note: One of the best-organized trips in the city is the boat trip departing half-hourly from the Gateway to Elephanta Island.