Renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, but thankfully also known just as "museum," this is Mumbai's top museum and arguably the best in India, providing an extensive and accessible introduction to Indian history and culture. The Indo-Saracenic building itself is lovely, but it is the collection that is outstanding, not least because it is well laid out (unlike the collections of most museums throughout the subcontinent) and aided by a useful audioguide highlighting "Curator's Choice" exhibits. The central hall features a "précis" of the collection, but don't stop there -- from sculptures of Hindu deities to beautiful temple art, Buddhist thangkas from Nepal and Tibet to gruesome Maratha weaponry, there is much to see. Highlights are found on the first floor: Among them, the spectacular collection of more than 2,000 miniature paintings representing India's various schools of art (look for the portrait of Shah Jahan, creator of the Taj Mahal), and the exhibit relating to the Indus Valley Civilization (which is remarkably civilized considering that it dates from 3500 B.C.). Least impressive is the natural history section with its collection of stuffed animals.
Note: Art lovers may wish to include a visit to Jehangir Art Gallery (tel. 022/2284-3989), located a little farther along M. Gandhi Road, and open daily from 11am to 7pm, free of charge. You can probably give the main exhibition halls on the ground floor a miss -- the exhibits there are fairly mediocre. Instead, head upstairs to Gallery Chemould (tel. 022/2284-4356; Mon-Sat 11am-6pm), a tiny, history-filled gallery that often features some of India's best contemporary artists. For reviews of current art exhibitions, consult Time Out Mumbai or "The Hot List," the entertainment supplement in the local rag Mid Day.
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