Khyber

Khyber has been going strong for decades now, and its classic Mughlai cuisine and tender kebabs remain outstanding, although not quite up to earlier standards. Start with kali mirch rawas (fish seasoned in black pepper), firm yet meltingly good; or chicken badami (in rich almond sauce) and paneer shashlik (grilled Indian cottage cheese, spices, and vegetables). Follow these with Khyber raan (lamb) or mutton chaap Mughlai and piping-hot naan bread. To cleanse the palate (Mughlai cuisine is very rich), order the fresh seasonal fruit or the ras malai. Besides the great food, Khyber is an experience in royal dining: The opulent decor includes original paintings by some of India's most famous artists (the likes of M. F. Hussain and Anjolie Ela Menon). Not much changes at this Mumbai institution, and service is sometimes slow.

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