Planning a trip to Munich

Fast Facts

ATMs—You’ll find bank ATMs all over Munich. City Telephone Code - For Munich, 089. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany; 089 if you’re within Germany but not in Munich. If you’re calling within Munich, leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.

Business Hours—Most banks in the center city are open Monday to Friday 9am to 4 or 5pm; several also have Saturday hours. Most businesses and stores are open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, although some close in the early afternoon on Saturday.

Currency Exchange—You can almost always get a better rate at a bank than at your hotel. On Saturday and Sunday, or at night, you can exchange money at the Hauptbahnhof exchange, Bahnhofplatz, which is open daily from 6am to 11:30pm.

Dentists—For an English-speaking dentist, go to the Klinik und Poliklinik für Kieferchirurgie der Universität München, Lindwurmstrasse 2A (tel. 089/51600; U-Bahn: Goetheplatz), the dental clinic for the university. It deals with emergency cases and is always open.

Doctors—For 24-hour medical service, go to Schwabing Hospital, Kölner Platz 1 (tel. 089/30680; U-Bahn: Scheidplatz).

Drinking Laws—As in many European countries, the application of drinking laws is flexible. Laws are enforced only if a problem develops or if decorum is broken. Officially, someone must be 18 to consume any kind of alcoholic beverage in Germany, although at family gatherings, wine or schnapps might be offered to underage imbibers. For a bar or cafe to request proof of age of a prospective client is very rare. Drinking and driving, however, is treated as a very serious offense.

Beer, wine, and liquor are sold at most local supermarkets; many in Munich are open until 10pm. Munich doesn't have restrictive closing times for bars, many of which stay open until dawn, depending on the individual owners.

Drug Laws—Penalties for illegal drug possession in Germany are severe. You could go to jail or be deported immediately.

Electricity—In most places, the electricity is 220 volts AC, 50 cycles. Therefore, a transformer will be needed for U.S. appliances. Many leading hotels will supply one when asked. Otherwise, bring your own.

Embassies & Consulates—Offices representing various foreign governments are located in Munich. A United States Consulate is at Königstrasse 5, 80539 München (tel. 089/2-88-80). Canada maintains a consulate at Tal 29, 80331 (tel. 089/2-19-95-70). A Consulate General Office for the United Kingdom is located at Möhlstrasse 5, 81675 (tel. 089/21-10-90). The Australian government does not maintain an office in Munich, but if you should need assistance, contact the consulate in Berlin at Wallstrasse 76-79 10179 (tel. 030/8-80-08-80). New Zealand's embassy is also in Berlin, Friedrichstrasse 60 (tel. 030/20-62-10).

Emergencies—For emergency medical aid or the police, phone tel. 110. Call the fire department at tel. 112.

Holidays—The following public holidays are celebrated in Bavaria: January 1 (New Year's Day), January 6 (Epiphany), Easter (Good Friday and Easter Monday), May 1 (Labor Day), Ascension Day (10 days before Pentecost, the seventh Sun after Easter), Whitmonday (day after Whitsunday/Pentecost), Corpus Christi (10 days after Pentecost), August 15 (Feast of the Assumption), October 3 (Day of German Unity), November 1 (All Saints' Day), November 17 (Day of Prayer and National Repentance), and December 25 and 26 (Christmas).

Hospitals—Munich has a large number of hospitals with English-speaking staffs. Your hotel can put you in touch with the one nearest you. The German word for hospital is Krankenhaus. A good recommendation is Städtisches Klinikum München, Bogenhausen (tel. 089/92700; www.kh-bogenhausen.de).

Internet Access—Chances are, Wi-Fi will be available either free or for a nominal charge at your hotel. WiFi is free at any Starbucks as well as at many restaurants and cafes.

Language—Many Germans speak English, and English is usually spoken at major hotels and restaurants as well as in principal tourist areas. Nevertheless, a good phrase book to carry with you is German Berlitz Phrase Book or the Berlitz Surviving in German, available in most big bookstores.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning—Look in the Yellow Pages under either Wascherei or Waschsalon for a coin-operated laundromat near your hotel.

Legal Aid—Legal aid in Germany is administered by the Länder, a government agency. By federal law, anyone lawfully present in Germany can ask for legal aid. Forms to apply for legal advice and aid are available from any local courthouse or from a local lawyer. A visitor should also consult his or her local consulate.

Lost & Found—Be sure to tell all your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; the company may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number outside the U.S. is tel. 410/581-9994 or in Germany 0800-811-8440; call collect. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 336/393-1111. MasterCard holders should call collect tel. 636/722-7111. If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail—Street mailboxes are painted yellow. It costs 1.70€ for the first 5 grams (about 1/5 oz.) to send an airmail letter to the United States or Canada, and 1€ for postcards. All letters to the U.K. cost .70€. To mail a package, go to one of the larger post offices in Munich. The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof, at Bahnhofplatz 1 (tel. 01802/3333). If you want to have your mail sent to you, have it addressed Poste Restante, Postamt München, Bahnhofplatz 1, 80074 München, for general delivery. Take along your passport to reclaim any mail. The office is open Monday to Friday 7am to 8pm, Saturday 8am to 4pm, and Sunday 9am to 3pm.

Money—The decimal monetary system in Germany is the euro (€), which is divided into 100 cents (written as “c”). There are 2€ and 1€ coins, as well as 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c, and 1c coins. Banknotes are issued for 500€, 200€, 100€, 50€, 20€, 10€ and 5€.

Newspapers & Magazines—The International Herald Tribune is the most widely distributed English-language newspaper in the city. You can also find copies of USA Today and the European editions of Time and Newsweek.

Pharmacy/Drugstores—For an international drugstore where English is spoken, go to Bahnhof Apotheke, Bahnhofplatz 2 (tel. 089/594119; www.hauptbanhofapo.de; U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), open Monday to Friday 8am to 6:30pm and Saturday 8am to 2pm. If you need a prescription filled during off hours, call tel. 089/557661 for locations of open pharmacies. The information is recorded and in German only, so you may need to get someone from your hotel staff to assist you.

Police—Throughout the country, dial 110 for emergencies.

Post Offices—The most central post office is the Postbank at Bahnhofplatz, opposite the main train station exit; it’s open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm, and Saturday 9am to 3pm.

Safety—Munich, like all big cities, has its share of crime, especially pickpocketing and purse and camera snatching, but it is generally a safe city. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas, such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof, which can be particularly dangerous at night if you are traveling alone. Use caution and common sense.

Taxes—As a member of the European Union, Germany imposes a tax on most goods and services known as a value-added tax (VAT) or, in German, Mehrwertsteuer. Nearly everything is taxed at 19%, including vital necessities such as gas and luxury items such as jewelry. Food and books are taxed at 7%. VAT is included in the prices of restaurants and hotels. Goods for sale, such as cameras, also have the 19% tax already factored into the price. Stores that display a tax-free sticker will issue you a Tax-Free Shopping Check at the time of purchase. When leaving the country, have your check stamped by the German Customs Service as your proof of legal export. You can then get a cash refund at one of the Tax-Free Shopping Service offices in the major airports and many train stations, even at some of the bigger ferry terminals. Otherwise, you must send the checks to Tax-Free Shopping Service, Mengstrasse 19, 23552 Lübeck, Germany. If you want the payment to be credited to your bank card or your bank account, mention this. There is no airport departure tax.

Telephone—The country code for Germany is 49, and the local code for Munich is 89. To make international calls from Munich, dial 00 and then the country code, local code, and telephone number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial tel. 001 202/588-7800.

Time Zone—Munich follows Central European Time, which is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Between April and September, the clocks are set forward by an hour, making the time GMT+2. So, most of the year, when it’s noon in New York and 5pm in London, it’s 6pm in Munich.

Tipping—If a restaurant bill says Bedienung, that means a service charge has already been added, so just round up to the nearest euro. If not, add 10% to 15%. Bellhops get 1€ per bag, as does the doorman at your hotel, restaurant, or nightclub. Room-cleaning staff get small tips, but you should tip concierges who perform special favors. Tip hairdressers or barbers 5% to 10%.

Toilets—Use the word Toilette (pronounced twah-leh-tah). Women's toilets are usually marked with an "F" for Frauen, and men's toilets with an "H" for Herren. Germany, frankly, doesn't have enough public toilets, except in transportation centers. The locals have to rely on bars, cafes, or restaurants -- and using them isn't always appreciated if you're not a paying customer.

Useful Phone Numbers—U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory (tel. 202/647-5225, staffed 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518); U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hot Line (tel. 800/232-4636).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Every U.S., Canadian, British, and Australian traveler entering Germany must hold a valid passport. You won't need a visa unless you're staying longer than 3 months. Once you've entered Germany, you won't need to show your passport again at the borders of Belgium, France, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, or Spain. Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt. If you lose your passport, visit the nearest consulate of your home country as soon as possible for a replacement. You should always carry a photocopy of your passport (stored separately) to expedite replacement.

For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the International Travel Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov (click on "International Travel for U.S. Citizens").

It's always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling in today's world with children. For changing details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, go to the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov.

To prevent international child abduction, European Union governments have initiated procedures at entry and exit points. These often (but not always) include requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child's travel from the parent or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, facilitates entries and exits. All children must have their own passport. To obtain a passport, the child must be present -- that is, in person -- at the center issuing the passport. Both parents must be present as well. If not, then a notarized statement from the parents is required. Any questions parents or guardians might have can be answered by calling the National Passport Center at tel. 877/487-2778; http://travel.state.gov; Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm Eastern time.

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). If you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Dept. of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, QC K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.dfa.ie). Ireland infants (up to age 3) are issued a 3-year passport. Children aged 3 to 17 are issued a 5-year passport. Persons aged 18 and over, including those over 65, are issued with a 10-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0300/-222-000, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Germany -- In general, items required for personal and professional use or consumption may be brought into Germany duty-free and without hassle. No duty is levied for a private car, provided that it is reported. You can also bring in gifts duty-free up to a total value of 175€.

The following items are permitted into Germany duty-free from non-E.U. (European Union) countries: 200 cigarettes; 1 liter of liquor above 44 proof, or 2 liters of liquor less than 44 proof, or 2 liters of wine; 50 grams of perfume and .25 liters of eau de cologne; 500 grams of coffee; and 100 grams of tea. Travelers bringing in tobacco or alcohol products must be 17 years or older, and those bringing coffee or tea must be 15 years or older. From E.U. countries the duty-free limits are higher. Duty-free allowances are authorized only when the items are carried in the traveler's personal baggage.

What you Can Take Home from Germany --

U.S. Residents -- Returning U.S. residents who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 3% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is dutiable at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to have your receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States, by cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order, and in some locations a Visa or MasterCard.

To avoid having to pay duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before you left on your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipts of purchase. Or you can register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking -- think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players -- with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office or register them with Customs at the airport from which you're departing. You'll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.

With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruit and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Residents -- For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet Be Aware and Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its residents a C$750 exemption, and adults are allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package "Unsolicited gift, under C$60 value"). Declare all valuables on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The C$750 exemption can be used only once a year and only after an absence of 7 days.

U.K. Residents -- U.K. residents who are returning from a European Union country go through a separate Customs Exit (the "Blue Exit") especially for E.U. travelers. In essence, there is no limit on what you can bring back from an E.U. country, as long as the items are for personal use (this includes gifts) and you have already paid the necessary duty and tax. However, Customs law sets out guidance levels. If you bring in more than these levels, you may be asked to prove that the goods are for your own use. Guidance levels on goods bought in the E.U. for your own use are 3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 3 kilograms of smoking tobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of wine, 20 liters of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), and 110 liters of beer.

For information, contact HM revenue Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 02920/501-261), or visit www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Residents -- The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900. Residents can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. If you're taking valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or go to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Residents -- The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Residents 18 and over can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice No. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Germany.

Orientation

Munich sprawls in all directions outward from the city center, or Innenstadt, which lies west of the Isar River. This is the area of most interest to visitors. Within the Innenstadt, the city’s historic medieval core, or Altstadt, is now a pedestrian-only district. At its heart is the famous Marienplatz square. From Marienplatz, a pedestrianized shopping corridor—Kaufingerstrasse and then Neuhauserstrasse—leads west to Karlsplatz, nicknamed “Stachus,” where one of the ancient city gates once stood, and continues via Schützenstrasse to the Hauptbahnhof, the main train station.

North of Marienplatz, Dienerstrasse leads to the former royal palace, the Residenz, with a sprawling complex that fronts onto two major squares, Max-Joseph-Platz and Odeonsplatz. Radiating out from here are four major boulevards, built in the 19th century by the Bavarian kings to create a “new” Munich north of the medieval core. From Max-Joseph-Platz, the fashionable dining and shopping street Maximilianstrasse runs east to the River Insel; parallel to it, Prinzregentenstrasse begins just north of the palace gardens (the Hofgarten) and also runs east to the Insel. From Odeonsplatz, Briennerstrasse rolls grandly west to Königsplatz and the Museum Quarter; it eventually turns into Nymphenburger Strasse, which continues west to the Bavarian royals’ summer palace, Schloss Nymphenburg. Leading north from Odeonsplatz, Ludwigstrasse passes through the university area and the once-Bohemian district Schwabing, which is bordered on the east by an extensive public park, the Englischer Garten.

South and west of Marienplatz, Sendlinger Tor and Gärtnerplatz are major intersections in the district known as Glockenbachviertel, a popular area for dining and nightlife. Theresienwiese, where Oktoberfest is held, is located southwest of the Altstadt.

Main Arteries & Streets

The best-known street in Munich is Maximilianstrasse, the most fashionable shopping avenue and one of the city's busiest east-west arteries. Other major east-west thoroughfares include Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauserstrasse. Both are major shopping avenues in the core of the Altstadt's pedestrian zone. Two of Munich's great 19th-century avenues, Ludwigstrasse and Brienner Strasse, stretch toward the district of Schwabing. Ludwigstrasse was designed to display the greatness of the kingdom of Ludwig I and is bordered on both sides by impressive neoclassical and neo-Romanesque buildings.

Odeonsplatz, on the southern end of Ludwigstrasse, was established to celebrate the Bavarian kingdom. Leopoldstrasse begins on the northern side of Ludwigstrasse and continues through Schwabing. The last of the 19th-century boulevards to be constructed was Prinzregentenstrasse, lying between Prinz-Carl-Palais and Vogelweide-platz. Along the Prinzregentstrasse at no. 7 is the residence of the prime minister of Bavaria.

Finding an Address/Streets

Locating an address is relatively easy in Munich, because even numbers run up one side of a street and odd numbers down the other. In the Altstadt, "hidden" squares may make finding an address difficult; therefore, you may need a detailed street map, not the more general maps handed out free by the tourist office and many hotels. The best ones (containing a detailed street index) are published by Falk, and they're available at nearly all bookstores and at many newsstands. These pocket-size maps are easy to carry, with a detailed street index.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. In general, reception is good. But you'll need a Subscriber Identity Module card (SIM). This is a small chip that gives you a local phone number and plugs you into a regional network. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destinations, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package, you'll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in Germany incoming calls are free.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (www.business.att.com/enterprise/Family/data-services-enterprise) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities in Germany, go to www.jiwire.com.

A few thousand hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You'll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www3.ipass.com. One solid provider is i2roam (tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes are found in larger cities, especially Berlin and Frankfurt. Due to competition, they do not tend to cluster in any particular neighborhoods, but they can be found on almost every business street in large cities.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

Telephones

The country code for Germany is 49. To call Germany from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 49, then the city code, then the regular phone number. Note: The phone numbers listed in this guide are to be used within Germany; when calling from abroad, omit the initial 0 in the city code.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 11837 if you're looking for a number inside Germany, and dial tel. 11834 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 0180/200-1033.

Local and long-distance calls may be placed from all post offices and from most public telephone booths, about half of which operate with phone cards, the others with coins. Phone cards are sold at post offices and newsstands in denominations of 6€ to 25€. Rates are measured in units rather than minutes. The farther the distance, the more units are consumed. Telephone calls made through hotel switchboards can double, triple, or even quadruple the base charges at the post office, so be alert to this before you dial. In some instances, post offices can send faxes for you, and many hotels offer Internet access -- for free or for a small charge -- to their guests.

German phone numbers are not standard. In some places, numbers have as few as three digits. In cities, one number may have five digits, whereas the phone next door might have nine. Germans also often hyphenate their numbers differently. But since all the area codes are the same, these various configurations should have little effect on your phone usage once you get used to the fact that numbers vary from place to place.

Be careful dialing toll-free numbers. Many companies maintain a service line beginning with 0180. However, these lines might appear to be toll-free but really aren't, costing .12€ per minute. Other numbers that begin with 0190 carry a surcharge of 1.85€ per minute -- or even more. Don't be misled by calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Germany. This is not a toll-free call but costs about the same as an overseas call.

To call the U.S. or Canada from Germany, dial 01, followed by the country code (1), then the area code, and then the number. Alternatively, you can dial the various telecommunication companies in the States for cheaper rates. From Germany, the access number for AT&T is tel. 0800/8880010, and for MCI, tel. 0800/8888000. USA Direct can be used with all telephone cards and for collect calls. The number from Germany is tel. 013/00010. Canada Direct can be used with Bell Telephone Cards and for collect calls. This number from Germany is tel. 013/00014.

If you're calling from a public pay phone in Germany, you must deposit the basic local rate.

Calendar of Events

All dates and events are subject to change. Contact the Munich Tourist Office at Sendlinger Strasse 1 at the Hauptbahnhof (tel. 089/233-96-500) for more information. The board publishes a free calendar of forthcoming events three times a year: in April, October, and January; the first two are biannual calendars and the last is a yearly preview. The calendars list the dates of trade fairs and exhibitions, theatrical and musical performances, local folk festivals, sporting events, conferences, and congresses throughout Germany.

For events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

Fasching (Carnival). Pre-Lenten revelry characterizes this weeks-long bash, with a whirl of colorful parades and masked balls. Special events are staged at the Viktualienmarkt. The celebration, which culminates on Fasching Sunday and Shrove Tuesday, lasts 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the dates of the Lenten season. For specifics, call the Munich Tourist Office (tel. 089/233-96-500).

Munich Fashion Week. The latest and often most elegant parades of fashion are staged at various venues across the city. Mid-February.

March

Starkbierzeit. The "strong beer season" provides serious beer drinkers with a fresh crop to tide them over until Oktoberfest. Just a pint of one of the dense brews churned out specifically for the season (beginning the third Fri of Lent and lasting 2 weeks) ought to satiate most buzz seekers. Beers with the suffix "-ator" (Salvator, for example) were created to be consumed at Lent. This dalliance from the strict fasting rules of Lent was approved by the pope long ago: When he tasted what Münchners had been imbibing, he found it unpleasant enough to think that anyone who drank it would not be violating the fast. (What he didn't realize was that the beer had traveled a considerable distance to get to him, which is why it was bad!) The tradition continues.

April & May

Auer Dult. A Munich tradition, Auer Dult is a colorful 8-day flea market that occurs three times a year. Prize antiques and vintage junk await the most disciplined bargain hunters. Merchants set up shop on the Mariahilfplatz on the last Saturday in April (Maidult), the end of July (Jakobidult), and the end of October (Herbst Dult).

Corpus Christi Street Processions. Street parades with dressed-up horses, a carried statue symbolizing Christ, girls dressed in white, a canopy, priests, and other functionaries are seen all around the region on the Thursday following the eighth Sunday after Easter.

June

Munich Film Festival. This festival isn't as popular as the February International Film Festival in Berlin, but it draws a serious audience. Late June.

Tollwood. This summer music festival, originated by environmentalists, honors the free spirit of jazz, blues, and rock from the third week in June through the first week of July in Olympiapark. Ask at the Munich Tourist Office.

July

Opera Festival and Munich Summer of Music. The Munich Philharmonic Orchestra's Summer of Music and the Bavarian State Opera Festival highlight the work of Munich's prodigal son, Wagner, and other masters including Mozart, Orff, Mahler, and Strauss. Contact the Munich Tourist Office (tel. 089/233-96-500) for details. All month.

Christopher Street Day. The big day for the estimated 100,000 gay men and lesbians who live in the city attracts people from across Bavaria. This fun-filled parade, with its outrageous costumes, is one of the largest such events in Europe. It is named after the street in New York's Greenwich Village that was the site of the 1960s Stonewall Riots, said to have launched the gay liberation movement. Mid-July.

Auer Dult. See the Auer Dult entry under "April & May," above.

August

Olympiapark Sommerfest. This well-attended summer festival near Coubertin Platz is an outdoor musical scene that ranges from classical music to rock and jazz, along with productions staged in the park's open-air theater. Admission is free. For details, call tel. 089/30-67-0 or visit www.olympiapark.de.

September

How to “do” Oktoberfest

The world’s greatest beer festival starts in September and runs to the first Sunday in October. All the trinken und essen (drinking and eating) at this giant 2 1/2-week party takes place at the traditional Theresienwiese (“Wiesn” for short) festival grounds, where different beers are sold in 14 different tents, each with its own atmosphere and food (sausage and sauerkraut prevail). If you’ve got kids with you (they’ll love the rides), the Augustiner tent is considered to be the most family-friendly tent. The best food is found at Käfer’s Wiesn’n-Schanke. Oktoberfest beer is delicious but strong, with a 5 to 7 percent alcohol level, and it’s served in 1-liter portions. Translation: Pace your beer drinking and drink plenty of water, or you may find yourself on the floor instead of at the table. The Wiesn welcomes millions of visitors, but only has seating for about 100,000, so if you want to sit, especially on busy weekend evenings, it’s imperative to arrive early—the gates open at 10am—and claim your space.

October

Auer Dult. See the Auer Dult entry under "April & May," above.

November

Christkindlmarkt. Every evening at 5:30pm, classic Christmas music bellows throughout the Christmas market on seasonally lit Marienplatz. You may even catch a glimpse of the real St. Nick. Traditionally runs from late November to Christmas Eve.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone older than 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (tel. 800/454-5768; www.roadscholar.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2-4 weeks abroad), and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50, 2009-2010, 18th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although Munich is one of the "gayest" cities of Europe, there is also prejudice and hostility here. Violence against gays and foreigners (especially nonwhite) is not unknown. On the other hand, homosexuality is widely accepted by a vast number of the city's population, especially young people. The legal minimum age for consensual homosexual sex is 18.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries designed specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are gay Australian tour specialists. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/834-6500; www.gay.com), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (gaytraveler.com) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (Odysseus Enterprises, Ltd.); and the Damron guides (http://damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Money

Munich is an expensive city. Although prices in Germany are high, you generally get good value for your money. Hotels are usually clean and comfortable, and restaurants generally offer good cuisine and ample portions made with quality ingredients. Trains are fast and on time, and most service personnel treat you with respect.

Many people come to Germany just for winter sports. The most expensive resorts are places like Garmisch-Partenkirchen. However, if you avoid the chic places, you can enjoy winter fun at a moderate cost. Some of the winter spots in the Bavarian Alps that haven't been overrun by the beautiful people offer great value. And prices in a village next to a resort are often 30% lower than at the resort itself.

In Germany, many prices for children (generally ages 6-17) are considerably lower than for adults. Fees for children 5 and under are often waived entirely.

Currency

The euro (€), is the single currency of Germany and other participating countries. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the native currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

You can exchange money at your local bank. If you're far away from a bank with currency-exchange services, American Express offers traveler's checks and foreign currency, though with a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs.

ATMs

The easiest way to get cash is from an ATM, sometimes referred to as a geldautomat. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to find out which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $3). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, the Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

In Germany, American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa are commonly accepted, with the latter two cards predominating.

For tips and telephone numbers to call if your wallet is stolen or lost, see "Lost & Found" in the "Fast Facts" section.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this latter number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for free for checks up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or within the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where U.S.-dollar traveler's checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of the serial numbers separate from your checks, in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Germany is one of the better countries for travelers with disabilities. Munich has excellent facilities. The local tourist offices can issue permits for drivers to allow them access to disabled parking areas. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair accessible.

Older, smaller towns, including those in the Bavarian Alps, may pose more of a problem, however, especially where the streets are cobblestone. Also, because of the Alps' many hills and endless flights of stairs, visitors with disabilities may have difficulty getting around outside of major cities, but conditions are slowly improving. If the areas you wish to visit seem inaccessible or you are not certain, you may want to consider taking an organized tour specifically designed to accommodate travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

AirAmbulanceCard.com (tel. 877/424-7633) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out the magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription.

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and those with special needs.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

American Express Vacations (tel. 800/335-3342; www134.americanexpress.com) is one of the biggest tour operators in the world. Its offerings are comprehensive, and unescorted customized package tours are available, too.

Brendan Tours (tel. 800/421-8446; www.brendanvacations.com) has a selection of 7- to 15-day tours. Accommodations are at the better hotels, and rates include everything except airfare. Collette Vacations (tel. 800/340-5158; www.collettevacations.com) has an Alpine Countries tour that covers southern Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) provides group tours to various areas of Germany and will customize them to suit your needs.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermined hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Packages for the Independent Traveler

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, but among airline packagers, Lufthansa (tel. 800/399-5838 or 01/805-83-84-26 in Germany; www.lufthansa.com) leads the way. You may also wish to try American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Tips on Accommodations

In general, Germany has one of the highest standards of innkeeping in the world. Hotels range from five-star palaces of luxury and comfort to plain country inns and simple guesthouses (Gasthäuser), with a huge variation in rates. The cheapest accommodations are in pensions (Fremdenheime) or rooms in private homes (look for a sign saying ZIMMER FREI, meaning there's a room for rent). Hotels listed as garni provide no meals other than breakfast.

Also, tourist offices will often book you into a room for a small charge. Obviously, the earlier you arrive in these offices, the more likely you are to get a good room at the price you want.

Surfing for Hotels -- In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com; Quikbook (www.quikbook.com); and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.com/Information_Overview.asp).

HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties.

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Throughout Germany, as in many tourist centers worldwide, hotels routinely overbook, so booking by credit card doesn't automatically hold your room if you arrive later than expected or after 6pm. The hotel clerk always asks when you expect to arrive, and the hotel usually holds the room until that time. Always pad your expected arrival by a few hours to be safe. However, all bets are off after 7pm, and the hotel is likely to give your room away unless you call and specifically ask them to hold it. If you've made a reservation very far in advance, confirm within 24 hours of your expected arrival. If you're experiencing a major travel delay, alert the hotel as soon as you can.

Beware of billing. Readers report that sometimes in Germany they booked a room online at one rate, but were charged a higher rate when they checked out. Keep your online confirmation in case of a dispute.

B&B Stays

Many travelers prefer to go the B&B route when touring Bavaria. This can be an inexpensive alternative to pricey hotels. However, some B&Bs, of course, are more luxurious than even a first-class hotel. Naturally, these come with a higher price tag. Breakfast, as promised in the name, is served, and often the staff at a B&B will pack you a picnic lunch if you're staying over in the area and want to go hiking. In some cases, and only if arranged in advance, a home-cooked German dinner might be served.

For reservations, contact Bed & Breakfast Inns Online (tel. 800/215-7365 or 310/280-4363; www.bbonline.com), or BnBFinder.com (tel. 888/547-8226 or 212/432-7693; www.bnbfinder.com).

Bungalow, Villa & Apartment Rentals

Dozens of agencies handle these kinds of rentals, the best of which are At Home Abroad, Inc. (tel. 212/421-9165; www.athomeabroadinc.com); and Drawbridge to Europe (tel. 888/268-1148; www.drawbridgetoeurope.com), which offers vacation rentals (even a private castle) in Mittel Europa, including not only Bavaria but also Switzerland and Austria. Interhome (tel. 800/882-6864 or 954/791-8282; www.interhomeusa.com) offers properties in 21 countries, including Germany.

House-Swapping

House-swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get a more authentic and personal view of a destination, the opposite of the escapist retreat many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (www.homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with more than 11,000 listings worldwide ($115 yearly membership). HomeExchange.com ($9.95 a month for 6,000 listings) and InterVac.com ($99.99 for more than 10,000 listings) are also reliable.

Romantik Hotels

Throughout Germany, including Bavaria, you'll encounter "Romantik" hotels, not chains but voluntary associations of small inns and guesthouses that have one element in common: They are usually old and charming, and romantic in architecture. If you like a traditional ambience as opposed to bandbox modern, then a Romantik Hotel might be for you. The requirement is that the hotel be in a historic building (or at least one of vintage date) and personally managed by the owner. Usually you get a regional cuisine and good, personal service, along with an old-fashioned setting and cozy charm. Sometimes the plumbing could be better, and standards of comfort vary widely, but all have been inspected.

For details, contact Romantik Hotels & Restaurants (tel. 800/650-8018 in the U.S. or 069/661-2340 in Germany; www.romantikhotels.com).

Getting There

As one of Germany’s major cities, Munich has no lack of transportation options. Like Frankfurt, Munich has an international airport, so you can fly there directly from many destinations including North America, Great Britain and Asia, and it is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe.

By Plane—Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (www.munich-airport.com; tel. 089/9752-1313) ) is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. Opened in 1992, the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. The S-8 S-Bahn light-rail train (tel. 089/4142-4344) connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20-25 minutes daily between about 4am and 10:45pm, less frequently through the night. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 10.80€ adults. (If you are going to be using public transportation once in the city, you’ll save money by buying an All-Zone Tageskarte/Day Ticket for 12.40€ and using it to get into the city. Note that the “day ticket” is valid until 6am the following day—in other words, NOT 24 hours.) The Lufthansa Airport Bus (www.airportbus-muenchen.de; tel. 0180/583-8426) runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from about 6:30am to 10:30pm. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10.50€ one-way or 17€ round-trip. A taxi to the city center costs about 75€ and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy.

By Train—You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or Europe. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 3 3/4 hr.) and Berlin (trip time: 6 hr.). Munich’s Hauptbahnhof, on Bahnhofplatz near the city center, is one of Europe’s largest train stations, with a hotel, restaurants, shopping, and banking facilities. A train information office on the mezzanine level is open daily from 7am to 8pm; you can also call Deutsche Bahn (www.bahn.de; tel. 11861 for train information and schedules). Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) system.

By Car—Think twice about driving to or in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area—wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (www.avis.com; tel. 089/1260-000), Hertz (www.hertz.com; tel. 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (www.sixt.com; tel. 089/550-2447.

When to Go

Climate -- In Bavaria and in the Alps, it can sometimes be very cold in winter, especially in January, and very warm in summer, but with cool, rainy days even in July and August. Spring and fall are often stretched out. In fact, we've enjoyed many a Bavarian-style Indian summer into October. The most popular tourist months are May to October, although winter travel to the Alpine ski areas is becoming increasingly popular.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

German medical facilities are among the best in the world. If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact your embassy or consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel. The water is safe to drink throughout Germany; however, do not drink the water in mountain streams, regardless of how clear and pure it looks.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before departing. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need.

We list hospitals and emergency numbers in the "Fast Facts" section.

General Availability of Healthcare -- For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland.

For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) offers tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/CDC-INFO [232-4636]; www.cdc.gov) in the U.S. has up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards by region or country.

Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (tel. 404/373-8282; www.istm.org).

Crime & Safety

Overall, the security risk to travelers to Munich and the Bavarian Alps is low. Germany experiences, however, a number of demonstrations every year on a variety of political and economic themes. These demonstrations have a tendency to spread and turn violent, and anyone in the general area can become the victim of a random attack. Prior police approval is required for public demonstrations in Germany, and police oversight is routinely provided to ensure adequate security for participants and passersby. Nonetheless, situations may develop that could pose a threat to public safety. All foreign visitors are cautioned to avoid the area around protests and demonstrations and to check local media for updates on the situation.

In addition, hooligans, most often young intoxicated "skinheads," have been known to harass or attack people whom they believe to be foreigners or members of rival youth groups. While U.S. citizens have not been specific targets, several Americans have reported that they were assaulted for racial reasons or because they appeared foreign.

Violent crime is rare in Munich, but it can occur, especially in high-risk areas such as train stations. Most incidents of street crime consist of theft of unattended items and pickpocketing. There have been a few reports of aggravated assault against U.S. citizens in higher-risk areas. Take the same precautions against becoming a crime victim as you would in any city.

Report the loss or theft abroad of your passport immediately to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while overseas, in addition to reporting to local police, contact the nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff can, for example, assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contacting family members or friends, and explaining how funds can be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you understand the local criminal justice process and find an attorney if needed.

U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad, for tips on a trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402, or via the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. Click on "International Travel" and then "Travel Brochures" within the "Tips for Traveling Abroad" submenu.

Insurance

Because Germany for most of us is far from home, and a number of things could go wrong -- lost luggage, trip cancellation, or a medical emergency -- consider some of the following options.

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 800/7325309; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home if they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment"; for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722).

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com (tel. 0845/345-5708), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Getting Around

Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent public-transportation system. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions—in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone.

By Public Transportation—An extensive network of U-Bahn (subway), S-Bahn (light-rail), Strassenbahn (trams), and buses makes getting anywhere in the city relatively easy. You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn and the aboveground Strassenbahn systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for 2 hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction.

Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.70€ if you pay cash and 2.60€ if you pay with a card. Short trips (up to 4 stops) cost 1.40€ if you pay cash and 1.30€ if you pay with a card. For information, call the public-transportation authority, MVV, at tel. 089/41424344, or visit it on-line at www.mvv-muenchen.de.

By Taxi—Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 3.40€ and rise by 1.60€ per kilometer; there’s an additional 1.30€ charge to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at tel. 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi. The Über ride-hailing service is also active in Munich, with many vehicles in the city limits.

By Bicycle—Munich is a bike-friendly city. One of the most convenient places to rent a bike is Radius Bikes (www.radiustours.com; tel. 089/5434877740), at the far end of the Hauptbahnhof at Arnulfstrasse 2. The charge is 4 to 5€ per hour (2-hour minimum), or 15€ to 20€ per day. A deposit of 50€ or a credit card number is required; students receive a 10 percent discount. E-bikes are also available for daily rentals (38€). Radius Bikes is open mid-March through October daily 8:30am to 7pm; between May and August hours extend to 8pm.

Saving Money on Transportation

A Tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of public transportation travel within the inner city costs 6.40€ for one adult; a Partner Tageskarte costs 12.29€ and is good for up to 5 people traveling together. A 3-Tageskarte (3-day ticket) costs 16€; the partner 3-tageskarte, good for up to 5 people traveling together, costs 28.20€. You can buy these cards from U-Bahn and S-Bahn platform ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

Special-Interest Vacations

Bavaria is one of the great outdoor destinations of Europe. From its mountains and beaches to its rivers and castles, there is much to see and explore. It has summer attractions galore, plus skiing on its Alpine slopes in winter.

E.E.I. Travel, 19021 120th Ave. NE, Ste. 102, Bothell, WA 98011 (tel. 800/927-3876; www.eeitravel.com), has a variety of self-guided walking and biking tours as well as cross-country skiing trips in Germany. It covers such areas as the Black Forest and King Ludwig's Trail, and will customize trips.

Biking

In Bavaria, you can bike through green valleys and past rivers while enjoying rural landscapes and villages. Allgemeiner Deutscher Fahrrad-Club, P.O. Box 107747, 28077 Bremen (tel. 0421/346290; www.adfc.de), offers complete information on biking in Germany.

For over 20 years, Classic Adventures, P.O. Box 143, Hamlin, NY 14464 (tel. 800/777-8090; fax 585/964-7297; www.classicadventures.com), has offered bike tours of such areas as the Romantic Road. Euro-Bike and Walking Tours has teamed with Austin-Lehman Adventures to offer some of the best biking and walking tours in Germany. The company's trips in Bavaria are particularly notable. For more information, check out www.austinlehman.com. You can also call at tel. 800/575-1540 in the United States and Canada, or else write to P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108.

Dozens of companies in Britain offer guided cycling tours. One of the best is the Cyclists touring Club, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GUZ 9JX (tel. 0870/873-0060; www.ctc.org.uk). It charges £36 a year for membership.

Hiking & Mountain Climbing

These sports are popular in the German uplands. It's estimated that Germany has more than 80,000 marked hiking and mountain-walking tracks. The Deutschen Wanderverband, Wilhelmshöher Alle 157-159, 34121 Kassel (tel. 0561/938730; www.wanderverband.de), services the trails and offers details about trails, shelters, huts, and addresses of hiking associations in various regions.

The Deutsche Alpenverein, Von-Kahr-Strasse 2-4, 80997 Munich (tel. 089/14-00-30; www.alpenverein.de), owns and operates 50 huts in and around the Alps that are open to all mountaineers. This association also maintains a 15,000km (9,320-mile) network of Alpine trails.

The best Alpine hiking is in the Bavarian Alps, especially the 1,235m (4,052-ft.) Eckbauer, on the southern fringe of Partenkirchen. The tourist office will supply hiking maps and details. Another great place for hiking is Berchtesgaden National Park, Kurgarten, Doktorberg 6, Berchtesgaden (tel. 08652/96-86-0; www.nationalpark-berchtesgaden.de), bordering the Austrian province of Salzburg. This park offers the best-organized hikes and will hook you up with various hiking groups.

Motorcycling

Guided motorcycle tours through Bavaria are the specialty of Beach's Motorcycle Adventures, 2763 W. River Pkwy., Grand Island, NY 14072 (tel. 716/773-4960; www.beaches-mca.com). The 2- to 3-week tours on BMW bikes begin and end in Munich, with accommodations at small hotels and inns. Maps are provided, as well as information and suggestions for sightseeing and independent cruising along the way.

Winter Sports

More than 300 winter-sports resorts operate in the German Alps and wooded hill country such as the Harz Mountains and the Black Forest. In addition to outstanding ski slopes, trails, lifts, jumps, toboggan slides, and skating rinks, many larger resorts also offer ice hockey, ice boating, and bobsledding. Curling is very popular as well, especially in upper Bavaria. The Olympic sports facilities at Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy international renown, as do the ski jumps of Oberstdorf and the artificial-ice speed-skating rink at Inzell. More than 250 ski lifts are found in the German Alps, the Black Forest, and the Harz Mountains. Information on winter-sports facilities is available from local tourist bureaus and offices of the German National Tourist Board.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen is Germany's most famous winter-sports center. Set in beautiful Alpine scenery, this picturesque resort is close to Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain. A mountain railway and a cable car can take you to the peak. In the town itself is the Olympic Ice Stadium, built in 1936, and the Ski Stadium, which has two jumps and a slalom course. Skiers of every level will be satisfied with the slopes on the mountain above the town. For information, contact the Tourist Office on Richard-Strauss-Platz (tel. 08821/18-07-00).

Visitor Information

Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (www.muenchen.de; tel. 089/233-96500), operates two tourist information centers where you can pick up a map of Munich and get information on cultural events. The one located in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) at Bahnhofplatz 2 is open Monday through Saturday 9am to 8pm and Sunday from 10am to 6pm; this office offers a hotel-booking service. A second branch of the tourist office is located in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday 9am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 4pm, and Sunday 10am to 2pm.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Altstadt (Old City)

The oval-shaped Altstadt (Old City) centers around Marienplatz, a large paved public square dominated by the Altes Rathaus and Neues Rathaus, with its picturesque Glockenspiel. Several major churches are also in the vicinity. Kaufingerstrasse, a pedestrian-only shopping street, starts at the west end of Marienplatz, and Tal, a retail and restaurant street, begins at the east side of the square. Just to the south of Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. East of Marienplatz lies the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is one of Munich’s most beautiful squares, site of the Residenz (former royal palace) and the giant National Theatre, home of the Bavarian State Opera.

Königsplatz & The Museum District

Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another trio of world-famous art museums—the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art)—are located just northeast of Königsplatz.

Schwabing

Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. This northern section of the city, with Leopoldstrasse as its artery, had a Bohemian heyday before World War I and has become a restaurant and entertainment area popular with students and tourists. The Englischer Garten spreads out along its eastern border, while Olympiapark and Josephsplatz mark its western border.

Gärtnerplatzviertel & Glockenbachviertel 

South of the Inner City and straddling the Isar River are the Gärtnerplatzviertel and Glockenbackviertel. The former is named after the roundabout of the same name that sits in its center; both are home to concentration of independent boutiques, hip coffee shops, trendy restaurants, and a buzzing bar scene.

Olympiapark

Northwest of the city center, the site of the 1972 Olympics is now a multipurpose complex hosting concerts, sporting events, fairs and more. BMW Welt, the car maker’s showroom, museum and factory, is located here.

Nymphenburg

Nymphenburg, about a 20-minute tram ride northwest of the city center, is of interest to tourists primarily because of Schloss Nymphemburg, the summer palace of Munich’s long-ruling family, the Wittelsbachs. The ornately decorated palace with its adjacent museums and beautifully landscaped grounds make a trip here worthwhile.

Bogenhausen & Haidhausen

East of the Isar River, outside the city center, lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy and upmarket residential neighborhoods where you find many hotels and restaurants.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. This website lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells local goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.com and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

Bavarians, with some justification, consider themselves in the avant-garde of green travel. Although they suffered one of history's most devastating attacks on their environment (World War II), in the postwar years they became a front-runner in preserving their environment and protecting nature. Germans are known for recycling and reusing their natural resources.

In Germany, more and more systems are going into place to generate energy from wind and solar power.

Bavarians didn't exactly invent walking or hiking across their countryside, but you would think so when you notice the number of citizens who prefer this form of exploration. It's a way to stay in good health, enjoy nature, and avoid harming the environment, all at the same time.

Trails in Bavaria are often signposted, cutting through all areas of the country, from tidal shores to low mountain regions, with tours offered to some of the more difficult-to-reach points along mountaintops.

The outdoor enthusiast might want to concentrate on Bavaria's national parks, 14 in all. Our favorite of these biosphere reserves is the Bavarian Forest National Park.

For general data about the parks of Germany, consult Nationalpark Service, Informationshaus, 17192 Federow, Germany (tel. 039/91668849; www.nationalpark-service.de). The national parks are free, but camping at designated areas ranges from 5€ to 10€ per night. Some parks have huts that are basic but better than a tent, and this form of accommodations costs from 10€ to 20€ per person.

If you're interested in camping, check the Great Outdoor Recreation Page (www.gorp.com) before you go. It has some fine data not only on camping but also on ways to enjoy the landscapes of Germany.

Many organizations are devoted to eco-tourism today, including Biosphere Expedition, P.O. Box 917750, Longwood, FL 32791 (tel. 800/407-5761; www.biosphere-expeditions.org). This California group sets up eco-friendly tours to the Bavarian Alps, for example. Earthwatch, 3 Clocktower Place, Ste. 1000, P.O. Box 75, Maynard, MA 01754 (tel. 800/776-0188; www.earthwatch.org), often includes Germany in its 1- to 3-week jaunts to promote conservation of natural resources.

An unusual offering for the true green visitor is provided by Willing Workers on Organic Farms, Postfach 210259, 01263 Dresden (www.wwoof.de). Charging a membership of 20€, the organization's name says it all -- participants get free room and board at a variety of organic farms throughout the country, featuring Bavaria, but they must be willing to work for their supper.

One of the best ways for the green traveler in Bavaria is to take a tour from one bio hotel to another. These jaunts take you to the most scenic parts of the country, including the Bavarian Forest. For information and a list of these places to say, check www.biohotels.info.

Increasingly popular is spending a holiday on a Bavarian farm, a welcome alternative for families with children. Sometimes guests can help with the activities, such as feeding the cows or helping with the harvest. Some lodgings are no longer working farms but have been turned into tranquil guesthouses with typical regional charm. Find out more about this type of holiday by searching www.landtourismus.de.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon-offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org) and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org).

• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.

• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also find out whether sustainable materials were used in the property's construction. The website http://greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements.

• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.

• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.

• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.

• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances.