The future is more promising for this naval-industrial town on the opposite side of the Thames from New London. It has long been dependent on the presence of the Electric Boat division of General Dynamics and the Navy's submarine base. There were threats to close the base, and, by extension, Electric Boat, but a federal commission issued a reprieve in 2004.
The principal tourist attraction remains the USS Nautilus, the world's first nuclear-powered vessel. After a visit to the submarine museum, history buffs may wish to stroll around Fort Griswold Battlefield State Park, Monument Street and Park Avenue (tel. 860/445-1729 or 860/449-6877). It was here, in 1781, that the traitor Benedict Arnold led a British force against American defenders, ruthlessly ordering the massacre of his 88 prisoners after they had surrendered. The free museum is open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, daily from 10am to 5pm; and from Labor Day to Columbus Day, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 5pm.
Fishing Trips
A number of companies offer full- and half-day fishing trips. Typical of the party boats is the 114-foot Hel-Cat II, 181 Thames St. (tel. 860/535-2066 or 860/535-3200; www.visitconnecticut.com/helcat), operating from its own pier about 2 miles south of Exit 85 north or Exit 86 south off I-95. Trips are from 6 to 8 1/2 hours at fares of $30 to $48. Tackle is available for rent.
Both charter and party boats are available from the Sunbeam Fleet, based at Captain John's Sport Fishing Center, 15 First St., Waterford (tel. 860/443-7259; wwwsunbeamfleet.com). Fishing party boats sail twice daily Friday through Sunday from mid-May to mid-June, Thursday through Tuesday from late June to Labor Day. The same firm has whale-watching voyages three times a week in July and August. Nature cruises go eagle-watching in February and March, and search for harbor seals March through May. Adult fares are $40 to $68. Waterford is the town immediately south of New London; the dock is next to the Niantic River Bridge.