Mystic Seaport

Dubbed "the museum of America and the sea," the 79-year old Mystic Seaport complex encompasses an entire waterfront settlement, capturing the look and feel of a 19th-century seafaring village. Thirty historic buildings were transported here from all across New England, and there are whaling ships and tall ships to scramble over and a working shipyard where carpenters use historically accurate methods of production. Few visitors fail to be enthralled by something in this place that so deeply evokes maritime's golden age, so plan to set aside at least 2 or 3 hours -- if not an entire day -- for exploring.

The visitor center sells tickets and has a daily map guide. Exit the center and head to the village green, which intersects with a street of period-style shops, public buildings, and houses. There's an 1870s hardware and dry-goods store, a one-room schoolhouse, the 1889 Fishtown chapel, and an 1830s home. A children's museum for kids up to 7 years old has games characteristic of the era and sailor costumes for dress-up.

From here, the majestic three-masted Charles W. Morgan, the proudest possession of the Seaport fleet of over 500 craft, is only a few steps away. It was built in 1841 and was an active whaling ship until 1921. (In fall 2008, the Morgan will be taken out of the water for restoration work.)

Fans of scrimshaw and ship "models in bottles" should be sure to continue along the waterfront to the right to the Stillman Building, which contains fascinating exhibits of both. Other buildings include a cooperage (where barrels are made), a tavern, an 1833 bank, and other shops and services that did business with the whalers and clipper ships that put in at ports such as this.

The friendly docents in the village are highly competent at the crafts they demonstrate and are always ready to impart as much information as visitors care to absorb. The fact that they aren't dressed in period costumes (except during special events like the Christmas lamplight tours) somehow enhances the village's feeling of authenticity, perhaps by avoiding the contrived air of many such enterprises.

A small lighthouse -- one of the few buildings at the seaport that is a replica -- looks out across the water toward the large riverside houses that line the opposite shore. From here, past the boat sheds, the fishing shacks, and the ketches and sloops that are moored along here in season, is the perky little SS Sabino, a steamboat built in 1908. This working ship gives half-hour river rides from mid-May to early October, daily from 11:30am to 3:30pm, and 1 1/2-hour evening excursions Sunday through Thursday at 4:30pm, Friday and Saturday at 4:30 and 6:30pm ($14 adults, $12 children ages 6-17; reservations required). Cruises are offered on other village ships as well. A few steps south is the Henry B. du Pont Preservation Shipyard, where the boats are painstakingly restored.

Free water shuttles take visitors from one end of the 19-acre complex to the other. Also on the grounds are the Galley Restaurant, which serves pretty good fish and chips, fried clam strips, and lobster rolls; and Schaefer's Sprouter's Tavern, which offers snacks and sandwiches (look for the hideaway bed in the corner, where a barman slept to admit late travelers). Across the brick courtyard with the giant anchor is a building containing several museum stores as well as an art gallery. These superior shops stock books, kitchenware, fresh-baked goods, nautical prints and paintings, and ship models.

When you exit, ask the gatekeeper to validate your ticket so you can come back the next day for free. Note that not all exhibits are open year-round, so check in advance if there are ones you're especially hoping to see.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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