Torigin Honten

In the heart of Nagoya, this 37-year-old casual restaurant with counter, tatami, or table seating is known for its Nagoya cochin (free-range chicken). Although it serves yakitori, this is not your usual yakitori restaurant; rather, dining here should be considered a culinary adventure of the chicken, with parts of the bird served in ways you've never imagined. All set meals include raw cochin with real gold flakes, though you're allowed to substitute a cooked dish if you like. The popular Gourmet yakitori (¥1,950) comes with eight different skewers, which may include tsukune (meatballs), chicken skin, and breast meat with miso paste. An amiable staff makes it diner-friendly; a black-and-white kura-style facade makes it easy to identify. If this main shop (Honten) is full, you may be led to one of three nearby branches, one of which offers tatami rooms with a view of the garden, but I prefer the liveliness of the main restaurant.

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