Harishin

Many tourists never see this lovely part of old Nara near Gangoji Temple, called Naramachi and consisting of narrow lanes and traditional wooden homes and shops. The restaurant itself is a 200-year-old house of ocher-colored walls and a wood-slat facade, and dining is on tatami with a view of a garden. Only an obento that changes with the season, the creation of chef-owner Nakagawa-san, is served (a mini-kaiseki meal is also available only in the evening for ¥4,000, but only if you make a reservation 2 days in advance). My obento included an aperitif wine, light tofu flavored with sesame, soup, rice, pickled vegetables, tempura, and various exquisitely prepared bite-size morsels of shrimp, chicken, potatoes wrapped in bacon, and scallops. A meal here is highly recommended.

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