Neighborhoods Worth a Visit

African-American Heritage -- Fisk University was founded in 1866 as a liberal arts institution committed to educating newly freed slaves. Prominent 20th-century cultural figures such as educator W. E. B. Du Bois, artist Aaron Douglas, and poet Nikki Giovanni attended the school. Fisk is perhaps best known for its Jubilee Singers, an African-American singing group that preserved spirituals, or slave songs, from extinction. The choir's 1873 tour of the U.S. and Europe helped finance the construction of Fisk University. Jubilee Hall, one of the oldest structures on the campus, is a Victorian Gothic gem listed on the register of National Historic Landmarks. Now used as a dormitory, the building houses a floor-to-ceiling portrait of the original Jubilee Singers, commissioned by Queen Victoria of England as a gift to Fisk. To see the hall, make arrangements ahead of time (tel. 615/329-8500).

The District

The District, encompassing several streets of restored downtown warehouses and other old buildings, is ground zero for the Nashville nightlife scene. It's divided into three areas. Second Avenue between Broadway and Union Street, the heart of The District, was originally Nashville's warehouse area and served riverboats on the Cumberland River. Today, most of the old warehouses have been renovated and now house a variety of restaurants, nightclubs, souvenir shops, and other shops. Anchoring Second Avenue at the corner of Broadway is the Hard Rock Cafe, and a few doors up the street is the Wildhorse Saloon, a massive country music dance hall. Along Broadway between the Cumberland River and Fifth Avenue, you'll find several of country music's most important sites, including the Ryman Auditorium (home of the Grand Ole Opry for many years), Tootsie's Orchid Lounge (where Opry performers often dropped by for a drink), Gruhn Guitars, and the Ernest Tubb Record Shop. Along this stretch of Broadway, you'll also find Robert's Western World, the entrance to the Gaylord Entertainment Center, and the Nashville Convention & Visitors Bureau Visitors Center. The third area of The District is Printer's Alley, which is off Church Street between Third and Fourth avenues. Though not as lively as it once was during the days of Prohibition and speakeasies, the alley is an interesting place for an afternoon or early-evening stroll. At night, a few clubs still offer live music.

Music Row

Located along 16th and 17th avenues between Demonbreun Street and Grand Avenue, Music Row is the very heart of the country music recording industry and is home to dozens of recording studios and record-company offices. Demonbreun, which suffered a few years ago when the old country music museum closed (and the new Hall of Fame opened downtown), is enjoying a resurgence as shops, pubs, and restaurants begin to fill the void. The neighborhood is a combination of old restored homes and modern buildings that hint at the vast amounts of money generated by the country music industry. This is one of the best areas in town for spotting country music stars, so keep your eyes peeled. Anchoring the Music Row "turnaround" (a circular roadway at the entrance to the area) is Musica. The 40-foot-tall bronze sculpture of six nude figures was considered a bit shocking when it was unveiled in the fall of 2003. After all, Nashville is located in the buckle of the Bible Belt.

The Gulch

The Gulch is a rapidly growing area just south of downtown that's being developed at a furious pace. An increasing cluster of buzz-worthy restaurants such as Watermark and Radius 10 have ramped up the area's cache with the in-crowd. Construction of $250,000 condominium and loft towers and other mixed-use high-rises is proceeding at breakneck pace.

8th Ave South and 12th Ave South

If you want to get off the tourist trail for the afternoon, head south a few miles from downtown to the funky little neighborhood known as 12th Avenue South. Twentysomethings have been buying and refurbishing the area bungalows. The area, roughly bounded by Linden and Kirkwood avenues, is also home to some of Nashville's hippest new restaurants and boutiques. There are a couple of clothing stores, including Serendipity Emporium and Katy K's Ranch Dressing, as well as a cool unisex hair salon called Trim. Start your sojourn with a bite to eat at Mirror or Mafiaoza's, browse the boutiques, and end the trip with a gourmet Popsicle from Las Paletas.

East Nashville/Five Points

Across the Cumberland River from downtown Nashville lies the endearing neighborhood known as Five Points in East Nashville. From downtown, take the Woodland Street bridge east and follow it a mile or so to this gentrified, turn-of-the-last-century neighborhood that's home to some of the city's hippest bistros and clubs, including Margot Cafe, Family Wash, and Lipstick Lounge.