Attractions

Kastro is the name both for the 13th-century Venetian kastro (castle) which is Hora's greatest treasure, and also for the neighborhood around it where the Venetian nobility lived from the 13th to the 16th century. You should allow yourself several hours to explore the Kastro area of Hora -- preferably by meandering and being pleasantly surprised at the architectural treasures (and nice little cafes) that you happen upon. If you take in Kastro's two museums, it's nice to have at least half a day here. To get to Kastro, you have to climb up from the harbor, through Bourgo, Hora's lower town. This route goes from harborside, through Bourgo, to Kastro. This is a pleasant way to spend a day -- or, if pressed, several hours.

The Portara and Myrditiotissa -- If you come here by sea, you'll see two of Naxos's most famous monuments as you sail into the harbor: the little whitewashed Myrditiotissa chapel on an islet off the quay and the Portara (Great Door), connected to the quayside by a causeway. The Myrditiotissa was built around 1207 by the Venetian Marco Sanudo, a nephew of the doge of Venice and ruler of the Venetian Duchy of the Archipelago. Sanudo also built much of the Kastro . The massive Portara entrance door is all that remains of an obviously enormous Temple of Apollo. A 6th-century tyrant, Lygdamis, began the temple; when he died, construction stopped and demolition began. Over the centuries, most of the temple was carted away to build other monuments and buildings, including parts of both the Catholic and Orthodox cathedrals and much of the kastro. Fortunately, the massive posts and lintel of the Portara were too heavy for the Venetians to handle. Each of the four surviving blocks in the gates weighs about 20 tons.

Some scholars have thought that this temple was dedicated to the god Dionysos, who spent some time in his youth on Naxos dallying with local nymphs. Many locals believed that this was the palace of Ariadne, the Cretan princess who taught Theseus the mysteries of the labyrinth and helped him to slay the Minotaur. Her reward was to be abandoned here by Theseus as he sailed back to Athens, an event commemorated by Strauss in his opera Ariadne auf Naxos. Dionysos took pity on the discarded princess and married her, which gave rise to the nice legend that this great door was the entrance to the bridal palace. Now, most scholars think that the temple was dedicated to Apollo, in part because of a brief reference in the Delian Hymns and in part because it directly faces Delos, Apollo's birthplace.

One of the nicest ways to see the Portara is at sunset, from one of the harborside cafes. If you feel like a swim, join the locals swimming off the rocks below the temple door.

Out on the Island

People who know Greece well often think that Naxos is both the most beautiful of the Cyclades and the nicest to visit -- and revisit. The island has a magical landscape, with somewhat mysterious valleys, fertile fields, and even the highest mountain in the Cyclades. That's Mount Zas, associated in antiquity with Zeus, who felt at home on lofty enimences. If you climb Mount Zas, you'll find out just how lofty it is. Naxos also has wonderful old chapels, some of the best infuriatingly hard to find tucked away in those valleys, absurdly picturesque villages, and -- let's not mince words -- often crowded beaches. You could spend a lifetime exploring this island. Here are just a few suggestions.

Ancient & Medieval Monuments -- In addition to the Temple of Demeter, Naxos has two unfinished kouroi (monumental statues of men) that are well worth seeing in villages themselves worth seeing.

The Bellonia, Frangopoulos, Angelopoulos & Himarros Towers -- The Naxian countryside is dotted with the towers (some defensive, some dwellings) that the Venetians built here. If you visit island villages, you'll inevitably see some of the towers, such as the 17th-century Frangopoulos tower in the hamlet of Chalki, some 17km (10 miles) south of Hora. The easiest to see from Hora is the Bellonia, just 5km (3 miles) south of town, outside the village of Galando. The tower, once the residence of the Catholic archbishop of Naxos, is privately owned, but you can get a good look at the exterior without making the owners feel that they are under attack. The chapel beside the tower is really two chapels: one Catholic, one Orthodox; the arch between the chapels rests on an ancient column capital. About 10km (6 miles) north of Chora, a track road leads to the Monastery of Our Lady Upsilotera (Angelopoulos's Castle.) This impressive 17th-century fortified building has a small sign giving its open hours and is usually closed. There are sometimes impressive turkeys wandering around the grounds.

Lovers of Hellenistic fortifications and of hiking may wish to see the 20m-tall (45-ft.) Hellenistic Himaros tower, outside the hamlet of Filoti; the tower is signposted in Filoti as Pirgos Himarou, but ask for supplementary directions locally and allow at least 3 hours to hike there and back from Filoti.

Byzantine Churches

You can easily spend a week seeing the Byzantine churches of Naxos; or you can see the handful mentioned below in a day. Getting to each one involves at least some walking. In order to see the interiors, allow time to find the caretaker. The churches are kept locked, due to increasing theft, although the caretaker often makes an early-morning or early-evening visit.

The remarkable number of small Byzantine chapels on Naxos mostly date from the 9th to the 15th centuries, many in or near some of the island's loveliest villages . The prosperity of Naxos during this period of Byzantine and Venetian rule meant that wealthy patrons funded elaborate frescoes, many of which can still be seen on the interior walls of the chapels. Restoration has revealed multiple layers of frescoes and, whenever possible, the more recent ones have been removed intact during the process of revealing the initial paintings. Several frescoes removed in this way from the churches of Naxos can be seen at the Byzantine Museum in Athens. Anyone with a particular interest in Byzantine churches here and elsewhere would enjoy Paul Hetherington's The Greek Islands: Guide to the Byzantine and Medieval Buildings and Their Art.

Just south of Moni (23km/14 miles east of Hora), near the middle of the island, is the important 7th-century monastery of Panagia Drossiani (Our Lady of Refreshment), which contains some of the finest -- and oldest, dating from the 7th century -- frescoes on Naxos (St. George and his dragon are easy to spot). Locals believe the icon of the Virgin ended a severe drought on the island shortly after the frescoes were painted. The church with its huddled arched apses and domes is all that survives of what we are told was an extensive monastery; what an appealing place for a contemplative life! Visits are allowed at all hours during the day; when the door is locked, ring the church bell to summon the caretaker (remember to dress appropriately). To get here, drive about 1km (1/2 mile) south from Moni and look for the low, gray, rounded form of the church on your left. Restoration work was going on in 2009, and one hopes that this does not end up among the many overly restored and tidied-up monuments of Greece.

About 8km (5 miles) from Hora along the road to Sangri, you'll see a sign on the left for the 8th-century Byzantine cathedral of Ayios Mamas, which fell into disrepair during the Venetian occupation but has recently been partly restored. The view alone from this charming church vaut le voyage! Sangri (the Greek contraction of Sainte Croix) today is made up of three villages, and includes the ruins of a medieval castle. The church of Ayios Nikolaos, which dates to the 13th century, has well-preserved frescoes, with a lovely figure of the personified River Jordan. To view them, ask around to find out which villager has the keys.

The Villages

Many of the nicest villages and churches are in the lush Tragaea Valley at the center of the island. Each village is tempting, and you can easily spend several days, or several years, exploring them. The bus between Hora and Apollonas makes stops at each of the villages mentioned below, but you'll have considerably more freedom if you rent a car. You'll find cafes in all the villages and restaurants in most.

Some Tragaea Valley Villages -- The Tragaea is sometimes called a "little Mistra," which I find misleading. First, the Tragea is spread out across a good deal of central Naxos, unlike Byzantine Mistra in the Peloponnese, which is built on one steep hill. Secondly, Mistra's churches are the magnificent products of a wealthy center of empire, all within walking distance of the ruler's palace. The Byzantine chapels of the Tragaea are largely appealing because they were built in small, scattered villages by locals between the 7th and 15th centuries. In any event, the Tragaea is green, fertile, and charming, with particularly appealing town squares in Halki and Filoti. Halki, 16km (10 miles) from Hora, has a lovely central square shaded by a magnificent plane tree. Side streets have some rather grand 19th-century neoclassical homes. The fine 11th-century white church with the red-tiled roof, Panagia Protothronos (Our Lady Before the Throne), has well-preserved frescoes and is sometimes open in the morning. Turn right to reach the Frankopoulos (Grazia) Tower. The name is Frankish, but it was originally Byzantine; a marble crest on the tower indicates 1742, when it was renovated by the Venetians. Climb the steps for an excellent view of Halki and across to Filoti, one of the island's largest inland villages.

The brilliant white houses of Filoti, 2km (1 mile) up the road from Halki, elegantly drape the lower slopes of Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades. This is the largest town in the Tragaea, and the center of town life is the main square, shaded like Halki's square by a massive plane tree. There's a kafenion at the center of the square and two tavernas within 50m (164 ft.). In the town's center, the church of Kimisis tis Theotokou (Assumption of the Mother of God) has a lovely marble iconostasis and a Venetian tower. In the hamlet of Chalki, which has some wonderful neoclassical mansions and a shady plateia, the Panagia Protothrone, signposted down a pleasantly winding country path, has 13th-century frescoes and is usually open mornings.

Apiranthos, 10km (6 miles) beyond Filoti, the most enchanting of the mountain villages, is remarkable in that many of its buildings, streets, and even domestic walls are built of the brilliant white Naxos marble, others of a golden hued local stone. Many of the narrow lanes are covered with arches that join houses. The people of Apiranthos were originally from Crete; they fled their homes during a time of Turkish oppression. Be sure to visit Taverna Lefteris, the excellent cafe/restaurant just off the main square ; day tours of the island often stop here, so you may want to eat early or late. If you have time, have a look in the small folk museum signposted on the main square; it keeps irregular hours, but has some great old photos, farm implements, costumes, and a sweet wooden cradle. There's also a small archaeological museum that's sometimes open.

The Villages with the Kouroi -- Apollon, at the northern tip of the island (54km/33miles from Hora) is a small fishing village on the verge of becoming a rather depressing resort. It has a sand cove, a pebbled beach, plenty of places to eat, rooms to let, and a few hotels. From the town, you can drive or take the path that leads about 1km (1/2 mile) south to the famous kouros (a monumental statue of a nude young man). The kouros, about 10m tall (33 ft.), was begun in the 7th century B.C. and abandoned, probably because the stone cracked during carving. Some archaeologists believe the statue was meant for the nearby temple of Apollo, but the kouros's beard suggests that it may be Dionysos. Naxos's other kouros is in the village of Flerio (also known as Melanes), about 7km (4 miles) east of Naxos town. The 8m (26-ft.) probably 6th-century-B.C. kouros lies abandoned as though asleep in a lovely garden. Both kouroi sites are open to the public and free; in Flerio you can sip refreshments (including the local kitron, a lemon liqueur) served at the cafe run by the family that owns the garden and cares for the kouros. When you visit the National Museum in Athens, you can view a number of successfully completed kouroi statues.