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The Atticus Bookstore & Café (1082 Chapel St.; tel. 203/776-4040), what many call the best bookstore in town, devotes half its space to a lunch counter, tables, and a takeout section locally famous for its scones. It's open daily from 8am to midnight.

The New Haven Pizza Wars -- On the scene for most of the last century, Frank Pepe, 157 Wooster St. (btw. Olive and Brown sts.) (tel. 203/865-5762; www.pepespizzeria.com), has long laid claim to the local pizza crown in the face of substantial competition. In exchange for almost unimaginably thin-crusted pies, pilgrims put up with long lines, nothing decor, and an often sullen staff the management prefers to think of as "seasoned." A big fave is the white clam pie.

You can do every bit as well at Sally's, 237 Wooster St. (tel. 203/624-5271), just down the street. Many knowledgeable pizza lovers believe that Modern Apizza, 874 State St. (tel. 203/776-5306; www.modernapizza.com), holds the edge over both.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.