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★[em]Proof positive that you can find anything in New York City, this narrow, bar-counter-only space serves kava and kratum, liquids (not liquors) with psychotropic properties, derived from the roots of Polynesian trees. Kava has a more “body-centric” high, giving users a deep sense of physical relaxation; kratum, when drunk in the right quantities, imparts a sense of euphoria. “Nobody comes here for the taste of the stuff,” laughed the bartender as I grimaced while sipping my bowl, my mouth numbing. But in a moment . . . the taste didn’t seem to matter all that much.