Ever see that Japanese film, Tampopo? The one about the couple who spent their time tramping from one ramen place to another, searching for the perfect noodle? I didn’t realize I, too, was on that quest until I tried Ippudo, and understood, for the first time, just how life-changing sublime ramen could be. That will sound hyperbolic until you try the silky soups here, made from the finest Berkshire pork and filled with toothsome noodles. The only shortcomings? I’m not the only one who feels this way, so the waits to get in average an hour and a half (go at lunch). It also is not the place for quiet conversation, as a full-throated Japanese greeting is hurled at each guest who enters.
- Pauline Frommer