Used to be that John’s Pizzeria was the one restaurant on Bleecker Street that saw lines out the door. Alas, foodies are fickle, and now this upstart, which serves Neapolitan-style pizzas created by an actual Neapolitan (Roberto Caporuscio), has all the glory (and the waits to get in). Deservedly so, I must say. Topped by house-made mozzarella, with a perfectly balanced sauce and a whole raft of ingredients to play with (Keste offers 40 options), this is, hands down, the best pizza I’ve had in the U.S. and may be a very close second to what I gorged on in Naples. Full pies only are sold, but they’re so delish, even single diners are able to put them away. Keste means “this is it” in the Neapolitan dialect, by the way.
- Pauline Frommer