The lechon kawali fries here are gonna kill you. These pork belly “french fries”, a warm and gourmet version of pork rinds (set atop a bracingly fresh salad of herbs, lettuce and celery and sided by the perfect vinegar dipping sauce), will literally make your face explode with flavor. And if you were foolish enough to eat just these for, say, ten meals in a row, likely the fat in them would make your arteries explode, too. But heck, you’re on vacation, and how likely is it that you’ll ever make it to the Philippines? These fries will show you what you’re missing. The rest of the menu—which includes shrimp cracker-like garlic chips, lumpia (a type of spring roll), shaved ice desserts and a number of noodle and fried rice dishes—is almost as good. Alas, the place really does look like a shack, which means the space is cramped, and the seating limited to a few high stools, so pop by to get food for a picnic or grab a chair for a quick meal.
- Pauline Frommer