New York has a number of places that attempt, with varying degrees of success, to look and taste like they were airlifted, intact, from France. Marseille is one of the few that does just that. The food is classic Mediterranean fare, very much like what you’d get in the restaurant’s namesake city (the bouillabaisse is particularly fine), and the setting is adorable, with wonderfully cozy booths, intricate tiling, and the kind of big round lamps you would see in France. A good choice for a pre- or post-theater meal.
- Pauline Frommer