It’s hard to decide which of the Momofukus—the name means “lucky peach,” and it’s become a small chain here in the city—is best. All of them (and they include Momofuku Noodle and Momofuku Ko) are casual restaurants (think long counters and shared tables) with decidedly elegant Asian food. Ko, which is a tasting menu only place, is near impossible to get into, so it drops off the list; and the noodle bar, while good, has been upstaged by Ipuddo. So that leaves Momofuku Ssam, where chef/owner/culinary savant David Chang pays homage to pork in many, many forms. There’s the delightful Asian-style burrito in the name of the restaurant, the artisanal ham plate, and the pork steak (which comes with blue cheese, beets, and shisito peppers, yet works amazingly well). The pièce de résistance: a whole pork butt for 6 to 10 people (this must be ordered in advance). Beyond pig, Chang is a master with vegetables and fish and . . . well, everything he serves.
- Pauline Frommer