The menu is a good 10 pages long at Nyonya, reflecting the broad mélange of influences that go into Malaysian cuisine. From India, there are rich curries, such as roti canai, light-as-air fried bread that you use to scoop up a bright yellow, chunky curry sauce. The oyster omelet with chili sauce speaks of China in its flavor profile, and has a delightful texture. As do the crabs with dried shrimp and chilis. Wash it all down with excellent house-made juices (my daughters’ fave is the green apple/kiwi concoction). Don’t come if you’re in a hurry or want a romantic atmosphere: The decor is nonexistent and there’s always a line to get in.
- Pauline Frommer