At this elegant restaurant—with one of the nicest garden dining areas in the city—the food is not just vegetarian, it’s vegan and raw. So the “cheeses” are made from fermented nuts, the “pasta” in the lasagna is thin sheets of zucchini, and the breads are made from sprouted grains. Sounds weird, I know, but the meal proceeds a bit like a magic show, as you try each substitution and realize “wow, this works.” I’m a dedicated carnivore, but I don’t miss meat when I come here. Instead I realize that I’ve rarely tasted tomatoes as, well, tomatoey as those in the lasagna here, or “cheeses” as creamy. An experience.
- Pauline Frommer