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Just off Hanover Square is the oldest street in Manhattan (it’s thought to be the only one still in the place the Dutch put it). It’s lined by 15 lovely Greek Revival industrial buildings (all built right after the great fire of 1835), and happens to be a splendid place to dine, especially when the weather’s nice. That’s when the cute-as-kittens restaurants that now fill these historic structures place tables right on the cobblestone street, which is closed to traffic to allow for some of the most picturesque al fresco dining in Manhattan.

One of the best of them is Smorgas Chef, a sunny yellow and sea-blue Scandinavian restaurant that exposes its customers to all the greatest hits of the region: Norwegian smoked salmon (on top of eggs, chives, and bread), salty herring from Denmark, and, yes, Swedish meatballs as light as beach balls and carrying a nice smattering of lingonberry sauce.