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Pure Japanese sushi, as it’s been made for centuries (that is, no mayonnaise or other fusion touches), cut, dabbed with soy sauce, and patted into shape by master chefs. That’s the zen formula here, and it works so well that the New York Times has twice awarded this little restaurant three stars. My advice: Sit at the sushi bar so that you can consult with the small army of white-coated sushi ninjas about which of the 60 fish on offer you should try. And go for the nigiri sushi rather than rolls: With fish this meltingly tender, you don’t want it buried in a lot of rice.