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An Irish guy from Vermont, Seamus Mullen, runs this place, yet in atmosphere and food Tertulia is the quintessential Iberian taberna. The food is cooked (mostly) in a roaring, wood-fired oven (copied from one Mullen saw in a small Basque town, near Bilbao); try to get a seat near the stove, as it’s mesmerizing to watch the chefs work it, creating food that’s perfectly charred and just a touch smoky. I highly recommend the tasting menu, but if you don’t want to shell out for that, build a meal around tapas (the tosta matrimonio, which “marries” black and white anchovies with sheep’s mild cheese, is a knockout) and the chef’s crunchy yet succulent chicken paella.